DATE: 18th June 2024. PLACE: Ambika P3 space. TIME: 17.00
University of Westminster BA Fashion show during London Fashion Week was full of youthful inspiration and fresh, slightly crazy ideas – some more wearable than others.The models were swamped under the piles of fabric and oversized clothes in multiples. Some were carrying an dead goat on their back, the whole impression of the collection was slightly eerie but rather imposing. The clothes had hints of traditional outerwear and craftsmanship.
Paolo Iacobucci
Paolo Iacobucci
Ode to Italy: Paolo Iacobucci’s affectionate but irreverent look at the stereotypes of his Italian homeland has led to this fun, inventive menswear collection. Eclectic inspiration is gathered from random sources such as pasta, the Mafioso, sipping wine in Positano, cycling jerseys and Nonna’s house. Paolo’s delight in colour and print defines this bright, cheeky statement. Hand drawn, child-like cartoon crayon prints stand out, while key pieces include the ‘spaghetti’ jacket and a bright red satin ‘Italian Stallion’ shirt adorned with appliqued 3D roses.
Rachael Tyler
Rachael Tyler
Salary men: The impactful photos of the dishevelled salarymen of Tokyo by Pawel Jaszczuk have inspired designer Rachael Tyler’s playful menswear collection. Challenging conventions of traditional business wear, Rachael uses unexpected fabrics, softening the norm of the sharp silhouette. The skewed necktie of an English schoolboy sports a classic crest and is celebrated for its disarray. Formal shapes with exaggerated shoulders inspired by the 1980’s are contrasted with the softness from undergarments. Homing in on ‘what lies beneath’ she exposes underwear, vests and sock garters meant to remain unseen.
Past & Present: Stavri Grigori’s womenswear collection blends Greek tradition with modern elements. Using materials like goat-hair and Moiré satin, Grigori creates distinctive looks that juxtapose historic carnival references with modern lingerie details. Her inventive designs celebrate Greek heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion.
Mila Nikcevic
Belgrade Boys: Mila Nikcevic’s menswear is inspired by the peculiarities of early 90s style in the former Yugoslavia. As the country transitioned through deep societal change, branded goods were scarce, highly prized and became symbols of success. Men’s fashion, heavily influenced by sportwear styling was eclectic, individual and often exhibitionist. Mila mixes these references with memories of her father’s family – pixellated imagery recalls decorative tiles from old church buildings. Macho posturing is tempered with campness, toughness mixed with curious cuteness, tracksuits juxtaposed with formal wear for a unique, colourful and fresh direction.
Mila Nikcevic
Olivia Stewart
Olivia Stewart
Olivia Stewart
Theo Ike
Theo Ike
Theo Ike
Jessica Parry
Jessica Parry
Jessica Parry
Tom Rowe
Tom Rowe:
Beside the Seaside: Inspired by 70s photographs of family holidays on the Isle of Wight and his personal memories, Tom Rowe’s imaginative, light-hearted response is a breath of seaside fresh air. Myriad references are drawn from the intricate details of piers, fairground architecture, unpredictable weather and even the process of changing clothes in beach huts. Twisted pieces reflect the vagaries of the British climate, and memories of ‘carrying too much stuff’ to the beach led to the creation of a unique ‘smock’ which incorporates backpack details. Stand-out jeans are re-created from old garments and echo the spiral of a favourite ‘Helter-Skelter’ ride.
