Words: Theo Thompson, Photos: Sanem Ozman, Rae Tait, Kseniia
The Banking Hall, London set the stage for a unique and evocative collaboration between two independent designers: Zlata Khodosovskaya founder of Patient Z and Maria Pavlenko of Aesthetic Bullet at the Flair Fashion: Frontier Collective Runway during London Fashion Week. The show was nothing short of breath taking, a vivid manifestation of storytelling, art and the deep connection between two creators who dare to reimagine what fashion can convey.
As I spoke with both designers immediately following the show, it was clear that every essence of the collection was steeped in intentionality and personal meaning. The historic architecture of Banking Hall served as the perfect backdrop for their bold, fantastical vision, the atmosphere felt deeply in sync with the styles unfolding. “When we first saw the venue, the colour scheme and the space felt like the perfect fit. It just clicked.”
The collection, titled Death of the Romantic, draws inspiration from Slavic folklore and fairy tales: stories that both designers grew up with, shaped by a world of fantasy, resilience and transformation. “The collection follows a romantic figure, naive and gentle, awakening in a harsh, unfamiliar forest,” Zlata shared. “Each look embodies a different character from the story, reflecting their journey through trials and metamorphosis.”
“It’s about creating a narrative where fashion becomes a tool for storytelling. What would these characters wear? How would they act, move, and transform?” Maria added, the delicate yet powerful designs mirror the tension between innocence and change, blending ethereal, soft fabrics with sharp, structural silhouettes. Models graced the runway wearing silver headpieces, black leather contrasts and intricate jewellery, each element underscoring the themes of strength and vulnerability.
The show’s captivating music, produced at the last minute by close friend Aron Levi, who works under the alias ‘Myth’, became an integral part of the experience. Maria reflected on the frantic process: “We didn’t have music until about 4PM on the day of the show. It was stressful, but the track he sent was dark, gritty and romantic. It felt like the perfect fit.” The collaboration with Myth, a versatile London producer, added an atmospheric depth that echoed the fantasy world the designers sought to capture. The music mirrored the visuals, both haunting and fierce, elevating the models’ dramatic movements on the runway.
One of the show’s standout themes was that of the display of contrasts – powerful elements juxtaposed with delicate beauty. A model, draped in black and wearing a silver headpiece, dragging a sword behind, embodying both strength and sorrow, while other looks featured light, flowing fabrics that conveyed a more fragile, ethereal quality. From the fur-lined pieces paired with black leather to the diaphanous grey and blue looks and intricate jewellery, everything worked in harmony to tell the story of Death of the Romantic. As Maria and Zlata put it, their collaboration was more than just creating a collection; it was about crafting a full experience, blending accessories seamlessly with the pieces to form a complete narrative.
Reflecting on their journey, Zlata shared, “I didn’t come from a fashion background. I just knew I needed to make my vision come to life, so I learned to sew, pattern cut and create the pieces myself. It wasn’t a linear path, but one driven by the need to express something deeply personal.” This sentiment echoes the wisdom of Rick Owens, who famously said, ‘Learn how to make clothes,’ a mantra that both designers took to heart in their individual paths. Maria’s journey was equally organic, shaped by her love of fashion storytelling, a background in acting and an obsession with designers like McQueen and Galliano. “At first, I didn’t think fashion was for me. But as I started working with jewellery, I realised that it was all about learning the craft, understanding the skill and bringing that passion to life.”
The duo’s bond is evident in their creative synergy. “She’s my dream maker,” Maria says of Zlata. “She pushes me so much, and I love it.” Zlata, in turn, notes, “I couldn’t imagine collaborating with anyone else on this collection. Working together has been incredible.” This collaboration is a testament to the power of collective creativity, where both designers have brought their distinct skills, Zlata’s vision and technical expertise with Maria’s jewellery mastery, together in perfect harmony.
What stood out most in Death of the Romantic was its deep emotional resonance. The collection speaks to the universal journey of growth, loss and transformation, using fashion as the language of metamorphosis. With every look, the designers managed to balance nostalgia with innovation, bridging past influences with contemporary sensibilities.
As the show ended, the audience, myself included, was left in awe; struck by the raw beauty of a narrative told through fabric, jewellery and emotion. Maria and Zlata’s collaboration is a reminder that fashion can be more than just physical. It can be a reflection of personal stories, cultural heritage and the ever evolving journey of self-expression. Their Death of the Romantic collection is a celebration of resilience and metamorphosis, both on and off the runway.
