Words: Theo Thompson, Photos: Chris Yates
Chiyue Dai’s Tifaret collection at London Fashion Week 2025 was nothing short of a revelation, an evocative fusion of East and West, where cultural influence, striking design and intricate craftsmanship converged into a narrative both contemporary and timeless. Drawing inspiration from Michelangelo Antonioni’s Red Desert, Dai skilfully merged a muted colour palette of dove-grey, ash and slate with vibrant bursts of jewel tones, symbolising the tension between restraint and desire. As she explains, “It’s a balance of the struggle within, a reflection of humanity’s hidden emotions, caught in a blend of blooming and depression.”
From the moment the first model stepped onto the runway, it was clear that Dai’s vision was meticulously executed. The flowing, draped silhouettes spoke to a sense of sensuality, yet were carefully designed to celebrate the female form, regardless of conventional standards of beauty. “I want my clothes to make girls feel unique, cool and feminine – even if they don’t have the ‘perfect’ body. My garments celebrate all kinds of women.” This inclusive perspective was evident throughout, as the draping and careful pattern-cutting enhanced each model’s shape with both fluidity and grace.
The attention to detail in Tifaret’s construction is nothing short of extraordinary. Dai uses luxurious American Supima cotton, silk and opulent wool, each fabric chosen not only for its visual appeal but also for its tactile experience. I personally found the incorporation of waterproof wool in trench coats and sculptural spiral fastenings, enhanced the structural elegance of the collection. The use of organic horn buttons and laser-cut pleats lent the garments an almost architectural quality, where art and form seemed to flow seamlessly into one another.
One standout piece, a delicate lilac dress paired with high boots, captured the essence of the collection: a floating ethereal feel balanced by a sharp yet fluid design. Dai mentioned that the colour story was integral to the collection’s narrative: “The colour palette represents not just aesthetics, but a story of struggle and renewal. It’s about balancing sophistication with youth, giving a modern edge to classic shapes.”
The collection’s symbolic richness was not limited to its fabrics and draping alone. Dai drew inspiration from Chinoiserie, with flame-like peonies rising against foggy landscapes, their delicate petals softened by lace, referencing the juxtaposition of strength and fragility that runs through the core of the designs. The cultural influences were unmistakable yet subtly woven into the collection, with references to China’s sartorial history, sharp lines of Zhongshan suits and the regal flow of horse-face skirts, reinterpreted through a lens of deconstructivism
As the models moved with fluid grace, Dai’s precise integration of music added another layer to the experience. The emotional resonance of the soundtrack mirrored the collection’s delicate beauty, its hauntingly subtle notes complementing the raw energy of the garments. The show was not simply about the clothing; it was an emotional journey, a visual and auditory experience that invited the audience to feel the collection as much as they saw it.
Reflecting on her artistic path, Dai shared her broader ambitions for Tifaret. “In five years, I hope to see my work in stores worldwide, starting with Europe and expanding from there. I want Tifaret to become a global brand that resonates with women across cultures.” And judging by the enthusiastic reception of her collection at London Fashion Week, it is only a matter of time before Dai’s vision reaches new heights.
Tifaret’s collection at LFW 2025 was not just a showcase of fashion, but a reflection of Chiyue Dai’s unwavering dedication to merging modernity with heritage, craftsmanship with cultural exploration. The blend of Western draping techniques with Asian influences marked a moment in fashion where identity and artistry converged into a singular, cohesive vision. A vision that is bound to shape the future of contemporary fashion.
