Words: Theo Thompson, Photos: Rosslyn Photography
Naomi Hart’s AW25 collection, titled Unproductive Thinking, made an unforgettable debut at London Fashion Week 2025, seamlessly merging bold artistic expression with expert craftsmanship. Steeped in themes of contrasting emotions, the collection explores the delicate interplay between organic shapes, marbled leather and vibrant pigments, while drawing from the youthquake spirit of 1960s counterculture. The collection was a true reflection of Naomi’s ability to push boundaries. Each piece told a unique story while retaining an undeniable air of elegance and whimsy.
As I sat immersed in the show, I was struck by the intimacy of the presentation—every moment felt deliberate and measured. The soundtrack, a fusion of Freya Everest’s curation of David Lynch’s ‘Strange and Unproductive Thinking’ with the haunting ‘Midnight, the Stars and You’ – Al Bowlly, set a dreamlike tone, complementing the delicate yet powerful designs. The show began with light, airy hues of pale yellow and cream, flowing effortlessly into darker, more structured garments, a progression mirroring the emotional journey Naomi sought to express; youthful innocence transforming into sensual sophistication.
The pieces were a seamless blend of the past and future. Silhouettes were flared, sleek and modern. The juxtaposition of structured tailoring with flowing, sculpted curves felt both surreal and enduring. A standout moment came with a striking 60s-inspired maroon coat, followed by a flurry of electric lavender coats and florals that made for an unexpected, yet fitting, crescendo. Naomi’s signature panels and leather were beautifully interwoven throughout, while playful elements like laced ‘trainer-like’ heels added a contemporary edge.
Naomi’s distinctive approach to design was evident in the collection’s details: each piece, handcrafted and bespoke, reflected the designer’s deep connection to her roots, both in nature and in the rebellious freedom she finds on a motorbike. Her background as a painter is evident in her treatment of the human body as a canvas – every garment stood as a masterpiece in its own right
In her first LFW showcase, Naomi Hart proved she is a designer to watch. The fusion of emotional depth and technical mastery she displayed in Unproductive Thinking speaks to the powerful future of her brand. With craftsmanship at its core, Naomi’s designs are more than just clothing. They are a celebration of individuality, confidence and empowerment.
