W: Lyon Jones

Designer: Zihan Liu

Theme: Provocation & Preservation: A Nomadic Synthesis of the Worn and the Woven.

Institution: Central St Martins

The Sketchbook: The Stillness of Stone and the Motion of the Body

The collection began as a psychological map of a journey across Europe. Liu used their own body as a "provocation," a living element of friction against the static backdrop of historic cities.

• Visual Genesis: The color story was birthed in the halls of the Vienna Natural Museum. Liu’s sketches of ancient stones provided a palette of mineral earthiness—muted greys, crystalline veins, and deep silicates.
• The Silhouette Concept: Inspiration was drawn from a singular, weathered vintage shirt. The idea of "concealment and revelation" became central—hiding the history of the worn garment beneath heavy coats, leaving only the collar as a witness to the journey.
• The Philosophy: A focus on "freedom and immediacy," ensuring the sketches translated into shapes that reject rigid tailoring in favor of accommodating diverse human forms.

The Fabrication

From Bamboo Weaving to Mono-printing

Returning to China marked a shift from observation to construction. The "Diary" at this stage becomes a record of hybrid techniques and sustainable resourcefulness.

• The Structural Hybrid: Liu integrated the traditional art of bamboo weaving into the collection. By repurposing everyday objects like bowls and streetlamps as molds, the designer created avant-garde headpieces that bridge industrial debris with folk craft.
• Textile Innovation: Rejecting the "new," Liu utilized leftover fabrics, breathing life into scraps through:
  • Appliqué: Layering textures to mimic the erosion seen on the journey.
  • Mono-printing: Creating one-of-a-kind marks that ensure no two pieces are identical, reflecting the spontaneity of travel.
• Construction: The garments prioritize a "raw" aesthetic, where the construction feels as immediate and urgent as a traveler packing a bag.

The Catwalk

The final presentation is not a static runway; it is a continuation of the designer’s journey.

• The Presentation: The garments move with a sense of "unburdened freedom." The heavy coats layered over the "provocative" inner layers create a visual tension between the protection of a traveler and the vulnerability of the artist.
• The Narrative Arc: As the models move, the contrast between the rigid, woven headpieces and the soft, printed fabrics illustrates Liu's transition from the "stillness" of Europe to the active "creation" in China.
• The Future: This collection serves as a prelude. The catwalk is merely the first stop before a larger exhibition focused on the artifacts and memories of Liu’s travels.