Sacred Stains: The Art of the Liquid Relic

Paweł Robuta’s MA collection, “Liquid Relics,” transforms the concept of the stain from a mark of imperfection into a sacred trace. Inspired by Barbara Baert’s philosophy and the gravity-led techniques of Helen Frankenthaler and Yves Klein, Robuta explores how fluid pigments can dictate form. By treating fabric as a "living canvas" rather than a fixed blueprint, the collection allows abstract splashes to guide the draping process, repositioning the stain as a deliberate architectural element.

The palette draws from everyday spills—coffee-brown, wine-red, and grass-green—interwoven with primary tones found in Ancient Greek texts. Utilizing deadstock crepe jersey, silk organza, and heavy cotton, Robuta employs space-dyeing and pigment painting to create soft, bleeding effects. Each silhouette is a study in "bodily freedom," anchored precisely by pins, boning, or singular seams to allow the material to behave as an environment for movement. Through this intersection of print and construction, Robuta successfully bridges the gap between historical drapery and contemporary expressionism.

Peak Performance: Redefining Functional Couture

Wictor Ljunggren’s collection, “Cinched In – Functional Silhouettes,” represents a sophisticated fusion of rugged utility and high-fashion artistry. Drawing inspiration from technical hiking gear and the historical foundations of military apparel, the Swedish designer explores the evolution of multi-functionality. This collection explores how performance, protection, and adaptability can be seamlessly integrated into contemporary silhouettes. By sourcing discarded functional fabrics—specifically durable ripstop—Ljunggren emphasizes material integrity and sustainability. These technical textiles are paired with Alpha Direct fleece to create a tactile interplay of texture and contrast. The visual language is defined by a bold colour palette that juxtaposes vibrant neon accents with grounded neutrals. Every garment is meticulously engineered, utilizing draping techniques developed directly on the body to ensure organic movement. Technical details, such as elastic cords and metal buckles, are not merely decorative; they provide adjustable functionality for a customized fit. Through custom transfer printing and innovative hardware, Ljunggren successfully bridges the gap between the utilitarian demands of the outdoors and the refined elegance of the modern fashion landscape.

Folded Roots: A Chilean Diaspora Reimagined

Gabriela Arias Egaña’s collection, Lost in Los Andes, is a profound exploration of heritage through the lens of the modern diaspora. Initially hiding behind technical precision, Egaña eventually embraced a more transparent narrative, merging her Chilean origins with contemporary fashion. The collection asks a vital question: How do conflicting cultural identities remain relevant today?

The aesthetic is a high-contrast dialogue between the ancient and the avant-garde. Egaña honors native materials—repurposed animal skins, furs, and feathers—but manipulates them to mimic the sharp geometry of paper folding. Through engravings and complex fusings, she achieves precise accordion pleats and polygon folds.

The palette and texture bridge two worlds. Traditional wood grains are printed onto leather, while folk patterns are reimagined as graphic appliqués using laser-cut bronze, neon acrylics, and holographic cellophane. By treating fabric to resemble the beige cardboard of traditional plissé, Egaña successfully merges ancestral craftsmanship with a bold, futuristic visual language.

Stitched Memories: A Nautical Love Letter

This collection is a heartfelt tribute to a cross-cultural romance—a love letter to the artist's parents and the stories that shaped her. Rooted in their meeting on a sailing boat from Sweden to Thailand, the work translates faded photo albums into a tangible narrative. Each look acts as a visual patchwork, filtering nostalgia through a modern lens while honoring chei—an old-fashioned Thai styling tradition—through its silhouettes and details.

The materiality of the collection reflects a hands-on, experimental spirit. Working primarily with polyester, leather, and knit, the designer embraced the "happy accidents" of manual craftsmanship. The techniques are as layered as the memories themselves: leather carving, intricate cut-outs, and transfer printing sit alongside oversized printed sequins and delicate embroidery. Every stitch and texture serves a purpose, preserving fragments of the past—the grain of an old photograph or the specific hue of a distant landscape—to create a tactile sense of home.