W: Lyon Knightgare
he IFM MA graduate showcase was a defiant collision of ancestral storytelling and radical technology, where garments functioned less as apparel and more as survivalist manifestos. Throughout the collection, fairy tales were expertly reclaimed as sharp political texts, stripping away the whimsy to reveal the power dynamics beneath. This intellectual rigor was matched by material innovation: plexiglass was utilized to aggressively reshape the female form, while crystals were literally cultivated into the grain of the cloth, blurring the line between organic growth and synthetic construction.
From the rugged adaptability of mountaineering-inspired "portable homes" to the emotional resonance of intricate knitwear, the show proved that the next generation of designers is obsessed with both the ethereal and the tactile. Crushed fabrics served as a haunting metaphor for resilience, while leather was forged into structural armor, protecting the wearer from an increasingly scrutinized world. This class didn't just present clothes; they engineered a new visual language for a complex, nomadic future.
HERE IS ASBO'S 6 OF THE BEST IN SHOW

HEIMA: The Nomadic Architecture of Belonging
Neza Dapcevic’s collection, HEIMA, navigates the search for meaning in a restless, nomadic society, questioning how we define "home" when permanence dissolves. By fusing the Scandinavian female persona with Balkan heritage, Neza explores the tension between high-altitude mountaineering and urban careerism. The garments act as a portable sanctuary—bringing the mountain to the city and translating endurance and mobility into a home carried by the body. While Neza is eager to collaborate with diverse artisans and value cross-disciplinary exchange, she remains a vocal critic of the industry’s rigid structures. Her work challenges the normalization of grueling indoor hours, advocating for the mental and physical health benefits of nature. Furthermore, as a woman in fashion, Neza critiques persistent male privilege in leadership, championing a future where more female creative directors steer the industry toward a more balanced, inclusive, and health-conscious collective vision.




The Architecture of Desire: Visibility and the Queer Body
My work navigates the complex landscape of sexual desire, rooted in the journey from a traditional Chinese upbringing to the liberated identity I found in Europe. After years of concealing my queerness, this collection serves as an invitation to embrace one’s sexuality without reservation. Inspired by Wolfgang Tillmans’ To Look Without Fear, I examine eroticism and the human body through a lens of radical vulnerability, utilizing his phallic Concorde motifs to inform my structural silhouettes. Further drawing from gay icon Peter Berlin’s Permission to Stare, I explore how stereotypes and collective fantasies shape queer visibility. As a graduating knitwear student and international student from China, I view fashion as an act of liberation. To fully integrate into the Parisian industry, I am committed to mastering French, recognizing that true collaboration within a studio requires bridging cultural and linguistic gaps to contribute effectively to a shared creative vision.






The Silent Dialogue: Mingrui’s Journey Through Form and Fabric
Mingrui’s collection is a profound exploration of identity through the lens of lookalikes, imitation, and the cultural phenomenon of Johnny Hallyday’s impersonators. It interrogates the thin line between the original and its caricature, where the mirroring of an icon inevitably leads to a powerful distortion of form. Through intricate shapes, Mingrui translates the raw energy of performance into the garment itself, showcasing movement, torsion, and the physical deformation that occurs when one truly embodies a character. The choice of materials further deepens this narrative, capturing the shifting relationship between reflection and light under the stage's intensity. Driven by a desire for technical growth, Mingrui is eager to transition into the industry’s collaborative heart. By working within a house atelier, Mingrui seeks to merge personal vision with the collective expertise of diverse teams, believing that the most profound learning happens where craftsmanship and shared creativity intersect.





Under the Lens: Yousra Youssoufa’s Architecture of Surveillance
Yousra Youssoufa’s collection is a profound interrogation of hypersurveillance and its specific, systemic impact on Black bodies. Drawing from the scholarship of Simone Browne, Yousra explores how the monitoring of Blackness has functioned as a historical and political norm, forcing marginalized groups to navigate a "well-oiled system" of social control. The garments translate this tension into silhouette, reflecting the exhausting act of self-surveillance—taming one's identity to become malleable enough for survival. This creative process underscores the vital necessity of community; shifting from a solo endeavor to a deeply collaborative one, Yousra integrates the expertise and shared lived experiences of Black creative peers. Driven by the resilience of the Black community, this work is a call for visibility and the reclamation of space. Yousra envisions a future where the industry finally makes room for the vital, missing stories of minorities, celebrating a collective growth that honors authenticity over conformity.




Mirroring the Icon: The Distortion of Johnny Hallyday
My collection explores the uncanny realm of imitation and impersonation, using the legendary figure of Johnny Hallyday and his legion of lookalikes as a central lens. It investigates how mirroring an iconic silhouette inevitably leads to caricature, where the original form is distorted into a powerful cultural symbol. Through innovative pattern-making, I showcase the physical toll of performance, translating bodily movements, torsion, and garment deformation into structural design. This visual narrative captures the intense act of merging into a character—the psychological and physical embodiment of "the other." I utilized materials that manipulate reflection and light to mirror the electric atmosphere of the stage, highlighting how performance alters our perception of reality. Transitioning from this study of singular icons, I am eager to join the industry's collaborative pulse. I look forward to working within a house atelier, where technical mastery and diverse perspectives transform creative visions into tangible, collective excellence.






Alchemy of the Soul: Digging for Gold in a Shifting World
This collection serves as a powerful manifesto for self-actualization, blending the ethereal aesthetics of magical girl transformations and floating structures with the grit of shadow work. By confronting our hidden depths, we reclaim lost fragments of the self, discovering that "digging for gold" is an internal mandate. This journey is mirrored in the designer’s own path—investing years of labor to fund an education only to face an unstable industry. Rejecting the ego-driven tradition of the singular "Creative Director," this work advocates for a radical shift toward stability and mutual respect. It celebrates the "guiding light" found in diverse, multi-generational teams, proving that when we integrate our shadows and work in true collaboration, we create a collective environment where both the individual and the artistry can finally flourish. Ultimately, it’s an invitation to unlock hidden potential, fostering a future where fashion isn't just about garments, but about the sustainable harmony of human connection.



