W: Sahara Jasmine Harmony (@saharmonyy)
If you're a sexy young lady, you're going to love Haus of Mclees. Bombay Mami, a singer who wore the brand to the show, told me it is "comfortable and sits just right… nothing falls out, it looks hot." These are garments designed to complement the body, revealing skin while surrounding the wearer with intricate embellishment and dramatic silhouettes. I envy anyone who owns a piece, and I'm determined to get an outfit of my own.
I rushed to the showcase straight from another show, arriving just as the runway was coming to an end. Gutted that I'd missed most of the collection, I stayed behind, chatting with Mclees Mantegazza and models about their experiences wearing the garments, piecing together what I'd missed.
Mantegazza's SS27 collection, RENATUS, explores what happens when we lose ourselves to darkness before confronting the most vulnerable, stripped-back version of who we are. The palette is restrained to black, white, silver and gold, while exposed silhouettes and sculptural forms reveal the body rather than conceal it. Silk, embellished mesh, crystals, embroidery and semi-precious stones meet intricate hand-beading, with recycled and repurposed materials used wherever possible. This season also marked the introduction of hand-beaded boots.
Mantegazza describes the collection as "being reborn again… being in a dark time and finding the light through it." We must surrender before something new can emerge. In my own experience, hitting rock bottom has been essential for my growth. For only in true darkness can you see the stars which shine brightest.
HERITAGE, HAND-BEADING AND THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE CLOTHES
Mantegazza's heritage is central to her practice. Haus of Mclees grew from her connection to her Indigenous heritage, the shoshone people of Wyoming, and the time she spent with her grandfather on the Wind River Reservation, where she learned about traditional beadwork.
Today, these influences run throughout her work, with Shoshone beadwork practices brought into conversation with contemporary fashion, music and performance. Her designs bridge traditional craftsmanship and modern expression, bringing an inherited practice into a contemporary world. I was moved by hearing Mantegazza speak about her team and family, the people she
credits as the backbone of her brand. "We need to bring back that community," she told me. "We need to bring back that craftsmanship."
As a mixed-media artist myself, I've experimented with beadwork and repurposed materials, so I know how many hours of work can go into a finished piece. From the outside, we see the final garment, but we don't necessarily see the labour, the individual hands or the shared knowledge that brought it into existence.
What began as a one-woman operation has grown into an atelier in Notting Hill, where designers and artisans work alongside Mantegazza to create the label's intricate pieces. The brand is preparing for a new chapter, with a planned relocation to Miami in 2027 and ambitions to expand its ready-to-wear offering while continuing its bespoke work.
A community effort challenges the idea that creativity must always be an individual pursuit.We celebrate the designer whose name appears on the label, but fashion is rarely the work of one person alone. The pyramids weren't built by one person. Neither is great fashion. Its value grows with every hand involved.
Perhaps that's another meaning of RENATUS. Rebirth is rarely a solitary act. We are shaped by the people who teach us, the traditions we inherit and the communities that help us turn our dreams into a tangible reality