DATE: 25th JANUARY 2020. PLACE: CASERMA GUIDO RENI : TIME. 12.00
Accademia Costume & Moda revealed a parade of sartorial trailblazers, providing signature pieces, unique forms, and tantalizing cuts. Marco Passone’s afloat-like glam encompassed his proclivity for skydiving, delivering clothing that was functional, beautifully printed and brave in aesthetics. Tailoring was delicate, emblazoned by a seamless versatility in structure. Other tropes of his, including flowing silhouettes, voluminous skirting, and geometric lines, brimmed. Alice Piscedda relishes a brassy shoulder. Made out of paper and decked by pastels, her collection champions the youthful power of ingenuity, relinquished upon adulthood. Piscedda’s latest collection hails the wacky, sort of like Thom Browne role model, and adds a distinct spin by painting and customizing her roomy yet ever crisply-shaped apparel.
Alessandra Mansi
Alessandra Mansi
Alessandra Mansi
Gabriele Larcher
Gabriele Larcher
Gabriele Larcher
Alice Piscedda
Alice Piscedda
The starting point of the collection is the film “Sing Street”. In fact, it belongs to the same historical period as the photographs of Rob Bremner, which represent the teenagers of Liverpool’s working class. The childish style of the collection has been inspired by his photographs accompanied by extreme over fit. The murals on Belfast “Peace Wall” are used as prints, elaborated through the decollage technique. The shapes are inspired by Peter Clark’s collages and recall the aspect of paper. Such characteristics may also be observed in the knitwear, since some elements of the Aran sweater have been elaborated using a particular paper thread.
Benedetta Cidonio
Benedetta Cidonio
Benedetta Cidonio
Eva Bureau
Eva Bureau
Eva Bureau
Marco Passone
The collection is named Gravity after the concept of “Gravity Pull”, a force of reverse acceleration that contrasts the speed of falling towards the soil of a body hanged to a parachute, and it is inspired by two far, different worlds: the military parachuting and the Teddy Boys. From the first one came the lightness and the soft volumes of coats and jackets, obtained by using light technical fabrics. The Edwardian cut, expressed by refined wools and dry shapes, came from the TB subculture. Prints are an elaboration of the artistic work of the Korean artist Ouzo Kim mixed with bird’s eye views of the city of Rome and topographic maps.
Marco Passone
Maddalena Gentile
Maddalena Gentile
Maddalena Gentile
Eva Bureau
Eva Bureau
Eva Bureau
Irene Valandro
Irene Valandro
Gender-Full is an experimentation on denim’s washes conjugated to innovative volumes. Denim, a fabric with no gender connotation, represents the ground to the jeans jacket and to the five pockets jeans. This classic wardrobe elements, once deformed, inflated and turned over, are the starting point to a research on male and female’s body shape. Anatomy stereotypes are ironically emphasized. Women’s conventional “hoursglass proportion” is mixed to Dior’s New Look silhouette. Men’s trapeze shape is stressed by big shoulders and paddings that play to exaggerate musculature and physical prowess, meanwhile being indulged by the 90’s his-hop inspiration.
