The Gritty & Cool Choice

DATE: 10th June 2024. PLACE: Graduate Fashion Week. TIME: 12.45pm

I: Shaun James Cox

The Liverpool John Moores University (LJMU) 2024 graduate fashion show at Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) was a high-energy spectacle of "fun and imagination." While many schools lean heavily into abstract concepts, the LJMU cohort was praised for its balance of high-level craftsmanship and wearable innovation.

Standout collections from Murdo Mckay, Mai Le Lan Y & Danielle Carrington

Murdo Mckay: The Art of the Essential

In a sea of avant-garde experimentation, Murdo Mckay made a powerful statement through restraint and technical precision. His menswear collection proved that impact doesn't always require "breaking the rules."

• The Look: Mckay focused on elevated tailoring, specifically utilizing pleated details to give traditional silhouettes a modern, architectural edge.
• The Execution: The collection was described as "accomplished," emphasizing a level of finish and fit often missing from student runways. It was a sophisticated take on how subtle modifications—like the placement of a pleat or the choice of fabric weight—can transform a classic suit into a piece of contemporary art.

Mai Le Lan Y: Menace in Greyscale

Representing the collaborative link between LJMU and the London College for Design and Fashion (LCDF) Hanoi, Mai Le Lan Y presented a post-apocalyptic streetwear vision that was arguably the most atmospheric of the night.

• The Concept: A "hopeless" urban future. The collection utilized an entirely grey color palette, which, rather than being dull, created a cohesive and "menacing" aesthetic.
• Design Details: Frayed edges, distressed textures, and worn-in fabrics suggested a world where clothes are built for survival.
• The Runway: The presentation was heightened by the models' aggressive walks, which perfectly complemented the "street-warrior" attitude of the garments. Mai Le Lan Y was notably selected as the top student for the LJMU/LCDF joint showcase.

Danielle Carrington: Structural Softness

Carrington’s work was noted for its focus on the manipulation of fabric to create form, standing out as a highlight of the school’s high-caliber craftsmanship.

• The Concept: Her collection was an exploration of delicate silhouettes transformed through heavy technical intervention.
• Key Techniques: She utilized intricate smocking and fabric manipulation to create three-dimensional textures that felt both organic and highly structured.
• The Aesthetic: The pieces struck a balance between soft, voluminous shapes and a refined, contemporary edge, contributing to the "fun and imagination" that defined the atmosphere of the LJMU show.