‘–. .- -.–’ is not the most obvious name for a collection, but Dong Hyun Oh’s graduate work isn’t what you’d expect. Meaning ‘gay’ in Morse code, five looks presented a dive into the oppression and invisibility of young gay men in Korea. “It explores the deep-rooted hypermasculinity, effeminophobia, and societal pressures that force individuals to conform or suppress their true identities.” To symbolise defiance, Oh deconstructed school and military uniforms. “Structured wool suiting is juxtaposed with sheer and fluid fabrics,” says Oh. The organic nature of human sexuality contrasts the rigidity of social expectations. A muted, neutral colour palette is disrupted by red accents, which Oh says symbolises individuality breaking through the socially accepted front.

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Yanlin Wu’s collection, Beyond the Gaze, reimagines eroticism and challenges the male gaze through bold, gender-inclusive designs that merge empowerment with playfulness. “I am cooked by the society.” After realizing the male gaze is not merely an external framework but a deeply ingrained societal lens, Yanlin decided to confront it head-on with her rebellious approach. The collection transforms labour-intensive craftsmanship into wearable art, with unconventional materials like horsehair evoking punk-inspired aesthetics. It channels the energy of a nightclub at dawn, where rivets glimmer like disco lights, knitwear pieces bring humour and surreal charm, and quirky details add a whimsical edge to this provocative narrative. Through this collection, Yanlin offers a fresh, mischievous take on sensuality and coolness.

‘A Lover in Marine Uniform’ finds an unlikely muse in Tadzio – the enigmatic youth from Thomas Mann’s Death in Venice. “The collection explores the hidden currents of desire and restraint in nautical archetypes,” the designer explains, blending sailor knots with themes of bondage, seduction, and masochism. Using navy blue, baby blue, and white, the collection evokes both sensuality and detachment, portraying a distant, elegant youth who is beautiful yet reserved. Wang’s design process is inspired by ‘The Art of Knots: A Sailor’s Handbook’, and attempts to capture the tension between freedom and restraint before a knot tightens. The concept led her pattern-cutting, through which she has reshaped collars, elongated panels and knotted details to create both movement and controlled entanglement.