DATE: 27th September 2020: PLACE: Graduate Fashion Italia. TIME: 19.00

W: Maximiliano Dubois

The recent showcase by Accademia Costume & Moda (ACM) at the Milano Moda Graduate competition marks a significant moment where academic theory meets the tactile reality of the Italian supply chain. By facilitating a massive collaboration between 18 students and 47 "Made in Italy" companies, the academy has moved beyond traditional education. This partnership allowed designers like Marco Passone, Alice Piscedda, and Irene Valandro to ground their experimental visions in the highest level of industrial craftsmanship, resulting in 18 capsule collections that feel both professionally polished and deeply personal.

The work of Marco Passone, Alice Piscedda, and Irene Valandro serves as a perfect lens through which to view the "raw and refined" aesthetic of the cohort. Their collections are defined by a fascinating internal conflict: the pairing of brutalist, rigid silhouettes with fragile, intimate detailing. This "contradiction" is more than just a stylistic choice; it represents a generation of designers grappling with emotional vulnerability in an increasingly automated world. Whether through Passone’s architectural structures or Piscedda’s focus on the "exposed seam," the clothing serves as a visual dialogue between the protective shell of the garment and the sensitivity of the wearer.

The conceptual depth of these collections ranges from a cold, post-human future to a warm, nostalgic revival of disappearing local identities. There is a palpable urgency in these pieces—an attempt to use fashion as a tool for connection rather than mere decoration. By integrating heritage techniques from local Italian artisans with forward-thinking concepts, Valandro and her peers are not just designing clothes; they are documenting the human condition. The result is a sincere body of work that proves the next generation of fashion talent is as concerned with the story and the community as they are with the silhouette.