W: Maximiliano Dubois

BA KNITWEAR

The Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) 2021 BA Knitwear showcase wasn't just a graduate display; it was a high-voltage shock to the system of traditional French luxury. In a year defined by global recovery and a digital-physical hybrid reality, these designers moved far beyond the "cozy sweater" trope. They delivered a collection that was tactile, architectural, and fiercely political, signaling a shift in how we perceive the medium of yarn.

The 2021 cohort mastered the art of three-dimensional construction, transforming soft fibers into structural armor. The standout theme across the runway was a total rejection of the "flat" garment. Designers utilized heavy-gauge ribbing, distressed ladders, and intricate intarsia to create silhouettes that felt alive and reactive to the body. This wasn't just about warmth; it was about using materiality to challenge the viewer's expectations of shape and form.

Gender-fluidity sat at the heart of the showcase, with the boundaries between traditionally masculine and feminine shapes completely dissolved through draped mohair and sheer, gossamer-thin layers. There was also a palpable "DIY-meets-Luxury" energy throughout the collections. By incorporating deadstock yarns and raw, unfinished hems, the graduates echoed the beautiful chaos of the early 2020s, proving that sustainability and high-fashion edge are no longer mutually exclusive.

Ultimately, the IFM 2021 Knitwear graduates demonstrated that the stitch is the most versatile weapon in a modern designer's arsenal. They successfully moved the needle from "craft" to "couture," proving that the future of Parisian fashion is defined by technical tension and radical expression. This wasn't just clothing; it was wearable sculpture for a generation that refuses to be pigeonholed.