BA MENSWEAR
W: Maximiliano Dubois
The Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) MA Menswear Graduate Show 2021 marked a historic turning point for the institution. By opening the official Paris Fashion Week® calendar on February 27, 2021, the school signaled its new status as a global powerhouse following the merger with the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Staged physically on the IFM campus during a period when most of the industry was relegated to digital screens, the show was a defiant display of technical mastery and resilience. It showcased a "fresh crop" of talent that successfully navigated a demanding two-year program, blending deep personal artistry with an immersion in the rigorous realities of creative production.
The collections were defined by a reaction to the "hostile climate" of the time—a world grappling with global isolation and restricted resources. This environment pushed the graduates to innovate within the domestic sphere, resulting in a high degree of artisanal hand-craft and hyper-personal storytelling. Designers like Tsung-Chien Tang utilized intricate macramé and locally sourced materials to bridge his Taiwanese roots with modern streetwear, while others like Mathieu Goose explored psychological depth through dramatic, 80s-inspired silhouettes. This cohort proved that even when traditional supply chains were fractured, their "expertise in various techniques" allowed them to create luxury fashion that felt both raw and highly polished.
One of the most striking themes of the 2021 show was the subversion of traditional menswear archetypes. The "One to Watch" designers moved away from rigid masculinity, opting instead for what could be described as an "abnormally normal" aesthetic. We saw a rejection of toxic stereotypes in favor of playful, protective, and sometimes infantile silhouettes. Luhui Miao, for instance, focused on the transition from boyhood to manhood, using heavy textures to symbolize emotional resilience. This shift demonstrated how the IFM education equips students not just with needles and thread, but with the critical thinking skills needed to challenge the status quo and make a real impact on the industry’s cultural direction.
Ultimately, the 2021 graduate show was a professional declaration rather than a mere student showcase. The inclusion of specialized work from leather goods and footwear majors gave the collections a "total look" quality that is rarely seen in graduate settings. The IFM pedagogy—marrying a personal artistic vocabulary with professional seminars—was evident in every garment. By presenting accomplished and thought-provoking work in the face of adversity, these graduates proved they were ready to transition from the campus to the highest levels of the global fashion houses, cementing the 2021 show as a benchmark for years to come.
