W: Maximiliano Dubois
The Class of 2023 showcase by Next Fashion School at the 9th edition of Fashion Graduate Italia was a high-energy exploration of individuality and the "Next Generation’s" perspective on the industry's evolution. Held at BASE Milano, the school’s presentation, titled "THE NEXT VIEW," stood out for its technical precision—a hallmark of the renowned Secoli method—blended with a raw, avant-garde spirit. The overarching theme of the event, "Do You Remember the Future?", challenged students to bridge the gap between historical craftsmanship and a conscious, sustainable tomorrow. Next Fashion School interpreted this through a lens of personal flexibility and self-expression, moving away from mainstream conformity toward a more fragmented, individual identity.
One of the most talked-about segments was the menswear capsule "Pescato del Giorno" (Catch of the Day), created by designers Federica Alessi and Lisa Vertuani. This collection was widely described as disinhibited and "avanguardista," reimagining contemporary menswear with a focus on meticulous, experimental detailing. It acted as a creative provocation, using the metaphor of a "daily catch" to suggest that fashion should be fresh, spontaneous, and unique to the specific moment it is created. This segment underscored the school's ability to push boundaries while maintaining the structural integrity required for high-end tailoring.
The runway featured a diverse cohort of talent, each bringing a prismatic facet to the show. Notable student contributors included Giulia Castellini, Giulia Merlari, and Angelica Tinti, who led the "Making Of" interpretation, showcasing the behind-the-scenes synergy of the school. Other designers on the catwalk included Eleonora Carpigiani, Alessia De Rose, Beatrice Gabellini, Gaia Giombetti, Nicole Guidi, Margherita Lapini, Serena Orta, Stefania Pazzaglini, and Maria Shawo. Collectively, their work reflected a generation that views the past as a "treasure of inspiration" rather than a set of rules to follow.
Reviewers of the show generally highlighted three pillars: technical patternmaking, sustainability, and eclectic style. Unlike some more conceptual graduate shows, Next Fashion School’s roots in traditional Italian tailoring were evident in the complex volumes and durability of the garments. The show was also accompanied by a lecture from Professor Greta Roncarelli, emphasizing the stylist’s role in "creative remixing" to give garments new life. Ultimately, the Class of 2023 show solidified the school's reputation for producing designers who possess both high-concept fantasy and the technical "know-how" to execute it in a professional, eco-conscious market.
