W: Honey King
The 2021 Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera Graduate Fashion Show was more than just a runway event; it was a profound socio-cultural statement. By moving away from the "idealized perfection" typically associated with Milanese high fashion, these ten designers positioned themselves as the "new guard"—creatives who value psychological depth over commercial polish.
The standout element of this show was the rejection of the "digital veneer." In a world dominated by filtered images, these students utilized fashion as a tool for intimate research.
Subverting Standards: Rather than creating clothes meant to "fix" or "enhance" the human form, the collections often explored the raw, unpolished reality of the self.
The Concept of Oblivion: One of the most intellectual pivots of the show was the contrast between oblivion (the void of information) and memory. This was translated into garments that felt either stark and erased or heavily layered with nostalgia and "the game" (playfulness)
The 2021 showcase proved that the next generation of Italian designers is less interested in the "glamour" of the past and more interested in the "truth" of the present. This intellectual bravery is exactly what is needed to navigate the future of the industry.
Cristian Di Serio‘s collection takes inspiration from the coal miners’ work uniform. The characterizing detail of the entire collection is the knot of their foulard, that has been inserted inside the capsule transforming the clothes from work uniform to garments with an urban style.
Leonardo D’Anzi was born from the desire to return to travel after this period of forced mobility, in order to re-discover the world, to gain knowledge, be amazed and contaminated. A journey that goes from the desert to the city and its goal is to give birth to a new language. Blue and yellow are the main colours and they give dynamism and cheerfulness to the garments, a newfound take on a joyful life.
“Eyes on me” is the name of the menswear collection created by the emerging fashion designer Domenico Dicorato and it was born from an in-depth study of his own personality. An Apulian boy who arrives in Milan because he no longer wants to be judged by society. Because society looks at you, judges you and hurts you through looks, leaving you with gashes on the armor you created.