W: Perry Hudson
The Academic Master in Alta Moda at Accademia Costume & Moda (ACM) continues to solidify its reputation as a powerhouse for nurturing high-level craftsmanship and conceptual depth. The recent showcase at BASE Milano was more than a runway show; it was a testament to the rigorous "learning by doing" philosophy that defines ACM.
Under the guidance of Santo Costanzo, the collections successfully bridged the gap between historical reverence and the avant-garde, proving that Haute Couture remains a vital medium for modern identity.
The strength of this Master’s program lies in its ability to teach students how to transform matter into emotion. The show at BASE Milano highlighted a few key trends in the next generation of couture:
- Identity as Narrative: Each designer used their heritage and personal psyche as the primary source material.
- Technical Plurality: A seamless blend of traditional hand-stitching with experimental silhouettes.
- Contemporary Poetry: A shift away from purely decorative fashion toward "fabric as language," where every pleat and seam carries a specific meaning.
The showcase confirms that ACM remains at the forefront of fashion education, producing designers who are not just technicians, but true authors of style.
Pablo Andreozzi | La Città Invisibile (The Invisible City)
Inspired by architectural or perhaps literary concepts (recalling Calvino), Andreozzi’s work acted as a map of the imagined. His garments featured complex layering and structural elements that transformed the wearer into a walking landscape, blending the rigid lines of urbanity with the softness of fabric.
Andrea Chiarato | And Something Else Happens and Everything Else is Gone
Chiarato’s collection felt like an exploration of the ephemeral. His work suggests a fascination with the moment of transformation—where structure meets disappearance. The technical execution leaned into the "couture as art" space, using silhouette to capture a sense of fleeting beauty.
Sara Hegyi | Tessuti Dimenticati (Forgotten Fabrics)
Hegyi’s collection was a poetic exercise in revival. By focusing on "forgotten" materials, she addressed contemporary themes of sustainability and heritage. Her work demonstrated that innovation doesn't always require new materials, but rather a new way of seeing—and honouring—the old.
Joana Rrapaj | Whisper at the Wonder Bar
Rrapaj brought a cinematic, perhaps slightly nostalgic, energy to the runway. The title suggests a narrative of nocturnal glamour and shared secrets. Her pieces balanced the structured discipline of tailoring with the fluid, atmospheric qualities of evening wear, evoking a sense of storytelling through texture.
Mikhail Errol Albano | Bel Fisico
Albano focused on the human form as the primary canvas. Bel Fisico suggests a celebration of anatomy and presence. His collection likely interrogated how fabric can both mirror and enhance the physical body, utilizing precision cuts to emphasize posture and movement—a core tenet of classical Alta Moda.
