W: April Young
Samuele Ruta’s 2025 showcase for the NABA "DENIM FUTURO" project represents a sophisticated intersection of subcultural history and technical innovation. By drawing primary inspiration from the Bosozoku, the legendary Japanese motorcycle subculture, Ruta successfully channels a sense of rebellious identity into a modern, utilitarian context. The collection does not merely mimic the aesthetic of biker gangs but instead deconstructs their signature silhouettes to create something entirely new. His use of denim is particularly noteworthy; he treats the fabric as an architectural medium rather than a casual textile, resulting in garments that feel structural, protective, and inherently defiant.
The core of Ruta's technical achievement lies in his mastery of modularity through hardware. As a finalist for the YKK Italia prize, he utilized industrial zippers not just as closures, but as the primary engine for design transformation. The collection features a three-piece system that allows the wearer to physically alter the garment's shape and function. This approach addresses a growing demand in the fashion industry for versatility, where a single piece can evolve from a rigid, armor-like shell into a more fluid and deconstructed form. This "transformative denim" concept highlights Ruta’s ability to merge the artisanal skills of a maker with the forward-thinking vision of a designer.
Furthermore, Ruta’s selection by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana for the Milano Moda Graduate event solidifies his position as a rising talent within the Italian fashion landscape. His work reflects the broader educational philosophy of NABA, which emphasizes the "Designer and Maker" duality. While the heavy, dark-wash denim and complex zip systems may present challenges for mass-market commercialization, they serve as a powerful proof of concept for the future of urban tech-wear. Ruta has effectively demonstrated that heritage fabrics can be reinvented for a futuristic, modular world, making him one of the most compelling graduates of the 2025 cycle.