W: Grace Kelly

Chang Zhang’s 2017 graduate collection for the London College of Fashion MA Menswear show was a masterful exploration of the historical and emotional nuances of male friendship. Drawing inspiration from the character Jim in Tom Ford’s A Single Man, Zhang sought to redefine the traditional "business-like" perception of male bonds. His collection aimed to reflect the modern transition toward a deeper, more emotional "sharing of inside worlds," resulting in a series of garments that felt both sensitive and highly structured.

The aesthetic of the collection was defined by a bold and energetic subversion of classic menswear patterns, specifically the Gingham check. Zhang took this traditional staple and "destroyed" its conventional use by experimenting with exaggerated scales and high-contrast color palettes. By piecing together vibrant oranges, deep purples, and electric blues, he created a visual language that was both theatrical and youthful. The silhouettes further emphasized this playful tone, featuring oversized collars and distinctive "capping cuffs" that lent the garments a character Zhang himself described as "cute."

Technically, the collection was a triumph of pattern-cutting and construction. Critics were particularly impressed by Zhang’s ability to align complex Gingham patterns across intricate seams—a feat that demonstrated the high level of technical skill expected from the LCF Fashion Design Technology program. While the designs were avant-garde in their use of color and proportion, they remained grounded in a sense of luxury wearability. This balance of conceptual depth and market readiness cemented Zhang’s reputation as one of the standout talents of the 2017 cohort.