W: James Bolton I: Giuseppe Molinari
The Ferrari Fashion School Graduate Show 2025, titled "025 LIVING MATTER/s," was a landmark event that transformed the prestigious Fondazione Sozzani into an immersive laboratory of emerging talent. Rooted in the poetic legacy of the Arte Povera movement, the showcase moved beyond traditional runway tropes to explore fashion as a living, biological language that dialogues with the body and nature. By utilizing raw, sustainable materials from industry leaders like Limonta and Manteco, the exhibition proved that the next generation of Italian designers is pivoting away from high-gloss glamour toward a more visceral, tactile, and intellectually grounded form of luxury.
Among the cohort, five designers stood out for their ability to translate this complex brief into cohesive, visionary collections. Melania Pirotta led the charge with her organic bio-textiles, while Diego Tontini masterfully blended family maritime heritage with rugged craftsmanship. Jessica Molino and Arianna Vaglio offered contrasting views on the human form—one focusing on anatomical vulnerability and the other on fluid, biological growth—while Carmen Miriana Ruiz Diaz closed the narrative with sculptural pieces that elevated "poor" materials into high-fashion statements. Together, these designers demonstrated a sophisticated balance of technical precision and narrative depth, marking them as the definitive voices to watch in the evolving landscape of contemporary fashion.
Melania Pirotta represents the "New Wave" of Italian designers who are shifting away from pure glamour toward conceptual depth. Her participation in the 2025 Graduate Show marks her as a designer to watch, particularly for her ability to handle complex textures and narrative-driven fashion. As part of the 2025 cohort, Pirotta’s work adhered to a concept that explored the intersection of fashion, the human body, and organic existence. The theme "Living Matter/s" was heavily influenced by the Arte Povera movement—a 1960s Italian art movement that prioritized "poor" or unconventional materials to challenge industrialization.
Diego Tontini’s graduate collection for Ferrari Fashion School 2025 offered a nostalgic yet rugged exploration of Adriatic maritime history. Inspired by his family’s heritage in Riccione, the collection reinterpreted the attire of 1920s sailors through a modern, artisanal lens. Tontini utilized tactile materials like boiled wool and felt, hand-processed to evoke the weathered endurance of life at sea. His silhouettes—featuring structured outerwear, innovative knitwear, and functional accessories—successfully bridged traditional craftsmanship with contemporary street appeal. It was a sophisticated debut that masterfully balanced personal storytelling with technical, high-fashion execution.
Jessica Molino’s graduate collection for the Ferrari Fashion School 2025 show was a striking exploration of surface tension and anatomical architecture. Working within the "025 LIVING MATTER/s" theme, Molino distinguished herself through hyper-detailed textile manipulation that blurred the lines between fabric and skin. Her silhouettes utilized strategic cut-outs and layered transparencies to examine the vulnerability of the human form. By blending technical precision with raw, organic finishes, she created a visual dialogue about growth and protection. It was a sophisticated, high-concept display that solidified her reputation as a boundary-pushing contemporary designer.
Arianna Vaglio’s graduate collection for Ferrari Fashion School 2025 offered a compelling vision of fashion as a living, evolving entity. Embracing the show’s "Living Matter/s" theme, Vaglio explored the synergy between structured silhouettes and fluid, artisanal textures. Her designs featured intricate layering and experimental fabric treatments that suggested a sense of biological growth, reflecting a deep engagement with the Arte Povera movement. By prioritizing tactile sensitivity and a monochromatic, sophisticated palette, Vaglio created a collection that felt both grounded and ethereal—a standout example of contemporary Italian craftsmanship meeting avant-garde, narrative-driven design.
Carmen Miriana Ruiz Diaz’s graduate collection for the Ferrari Fashion School 2025 show was a masterclass in the intersection of artisanal heritage and contemporary sculpture. As a key contributor to the "025 LIVING MATTER/s" showcase, Diaz Ruiz explored the dialogue between raw, earth-bound textures and refined silhouettes. Her work stood out for its use of "poor" materials—inspired by the Arte Povera movement—which she elevated through meticulous tailoring and layered complexity. Each piece acted as a sensory exploration of form, successfully translating the concept of biological matter into a sophisticated, wearable narrative that balanced strength with organic fragility.
