"We often think of death as cold and static, but through fashion, I wanted to find the 'touching' intersection where desire meets the eternal."

W: Perry Hudson

As the lights dimmed at BASE Milano for the Accademia IUAD showcase during this year’s Fashion Graduate Italia, the atmosphere shifted from the typical buzz of a runway to something far more visceral. Among a cohort of talented designers exploring the theme of "Intersezioni" (Intersections), Salvatore Sperandeo emerged as a definitive standout. He presented a collection that was as intellectually provocative as it was aesthetically arresting, signaling the arrival of a designer who isn't afraid to challenge the status quo.

Entitled “Toccante,” Sperandeo’s collection is a profound exploration of the delicate, often taboo, tension between the body, death, and desire. The title itself—which translates to "touching" or "moving" in Italian—serves a dual purpose. It refers both to the emotional impact of the work and the physical sensation of skin against memory. Sperandeo does not shy away from the darker corners of the human experience; instead, he dives into the sexualization of the deceased and the way society preserves the dead through monuments and tombs.

In this collection, the garments act as a second skin, mimicking a "stylization of reality" where the human form is both obscured and celebrated. Sperandeo was inspired by how historical monuments often imbue the dead with symbols of fertility, luck, and love. He translates these "invisible" connections into tangible fashion, using textures that evoke the cold permanence of stone and the fragile warmth of flesh. His pieces often feature structural elements that highlight the body's vulnerability, effectively turning the runway into a space of living sculpture.

What makes Sperandeo a true "one to watch" is his radical commitment to conceptual fashion in an era often dominated by commercial streetwear. While many young designers focus on the immediate wearability of clothing, Sperandeo is obsessed with the narrative. His ability to take a heavy, somber theme like mortality and infuse it with "desire and aspirations" demonstrates a maturity of vision rarely seen in a graduate show. He isn't just making clothes; he is crafting a visual philosophy about the human condition.

Coming from Accademia IUAD, Sperandeo follows a tradition of avant-garde Italian design that prioritizes authentic dialogue over trend-chasing. His work in the "Intersezioni" show was the perfect personification of the academy's mission to foster new possibilities between contrasting identities. As the fashion industry increasingly looks for voices that can offer depth beyond the digital screen, Sperandeo has proven himself to be a designer capable of leaving a lasting impression on the soul as much as the wardrobe.