W: Perry Hudson

At the 2025 edition of Fashion Graduate Italia, the runway became more than a showcase for new silhouettes—it became a site of cultural reclamation. Representing IUAD Accademia della Moda, designer Antonio Salvatore delivered a collection that was arguably the most emotionally charged of the season. Titled "Fate Presto" (Hurry Up), the collection is a haunting yet hopeful exploration of the Southern Italian identity, woven through the lens of survival and the persistent spirit of the Mezzogiorno.

The collection’s title is a deliberate echo of the famous 1980 headline from Il Mattino, a desperate plea for aid following the devastating Irpinia earthquake. Salvatore takes this historical trauma and recontextualizes it for a modern audience. Rather than focusing solely on tragedy, his garments represent the act of "resistance"—the stubborn, beautiful ability of a culture to reconstruct itself from the rubble. Through avant-garde tailoring and raw, unfinished edges, Salvatore captures the tension between a fragile past and a fortified future.

"Salvatore transforms a cry for help into a fashion manifesto, portraying the Southern spirit not as a relic of history, but as a living force that persists through hardship."

The materiality of the collection is where Salvatore’s message truly takes shape. Utilizing upcycled and salvaged textiles, the designer creates a physical metaphor for rebuilding. Heavy draping and structured layers evoke a sense of protection, while weathered textures and earthy tones reflect the rugged landscape of Southern Italy. The result is a series of looks that feel unearthed rather than manufactured garments that carry the weight of history while maintaining the sharp, underground edge of contemporary streetwear.

By blending high-level Italian craftsmanship with a gritty, experimental aesthetic, Salvatore has positioned himself as a vital new voice in the industry. He moves beyond the "Postcard Italy" stereotypes, offering instead a nuanced portrait of regional pride and socio-political urgency. "Fate Presto" is not just a graduate collection; it is a reminder that fashion is at its most potent when it refuses to look away from the scars that define us.

"By weaving the pain and pride of his heritage into his work, Salvatore proved that fashion is most powerful when it has something urgent to say."