W: Belinda Ottonello I: Daniele Venturelli
Fashion Graduate Italia opened with a powerful statement from IED (Istituto Europeo di Design). Under the theme "Bridging Tribes, Building Dreams," IED showcased eight selected designers from its Italian campuses, cementing its reputation as a top-tier global fashion institution.
The show, titled "Unstage," broke away from the traditional runway format. Instead of a linear walk, it utilized a "geography of gestures" at the Galleria Lia Rumma, creating an immersive experience where fashion, sound, and movement intertwined.
The selection featured a mix of men’s, women’s, and genderless capsule collections. Here are the standout designers who defined the IED 2025 showcase:
Stiven Harapi – Tyāga
Harapi’s collection was one of the most conceptually rich. It explored the duality between extreme technical protection (expedition wear) and the delicacy of Nepalese textiles.
- The Vibe: A journey from resistance to vulnerability.
- Standout Feature: The contrast of heavy, functional outerwear against lightweight, traditional fabrics.
Mia Agopian – Between the Lines Outsider
Mia Agopian focused on the feeling of being an "outsider," using deconstructed silhouettes to represent the fragmented nature of modern identity.
Chiara Cavalieri – Essere per sé
A philosophical collection exploring the "self for itself," translated into garments that prioritized internal comfort and personal expression over external gaze.
Umberto Fenicchia – Teche
Fenicchia investigated the concept of the garment as a "display case" or "shell" for identity.
- The Vibe: Introspective and architectural.
- Standout Feature: Expert textile manipulations that made garments look like protective structures, blending sartorial rigor with fluid forms.
Chiara Gallo – La Brava Bambina
Gallo’s work delved into the psychological and social pressures of "good girl" archetypes, often touching on themes of control and rebellion.
- The Vibe: Narrative-driven and emotive.
Nicola Demontis – Resilience
Coming from the IED Cagliari campus, Demontis explored the theme of adaptation. His collection utilized modular elements to address climate change and environmental flux.
- The Vibe: Functional, sustainable, and futuristic.
