W: Bradley High-king

"The concept permeates everything from grand temples to the smallest residential courtyards. I focused on the 'Siheyuan'—the traditional courtyard house—where the four square sides represent the earth, and the open sky above the courtyard represents the round heavens." — Peng Yiyun

In the landscape of modern fashion, few concepts are as ambitious as attempting to wear the universe. For designer Peng Yiyun, the vastness of ancient cosmology finds its home in the structure of a sleeve and the silhouette of a hem. Their capsule collection, A Round Sky, A Square Earth, serves as a profound sartorial bridge between ancient Chinese philosophy and contemporary avant-garde construction, marking Yiyun as a vital new voice in heritage-inspired design.

The collection is deeply rooted in the traditional philosophy of Tian Yuan Di Zhi, an ancient model which posits that the heavens are a circular, fluid dome while the earth is a stable, four-cornered foundation. Rather than a literal or surface-level interpretation, Yiyun looks to architecture as the intermediary. By studying the geometry of the Temple of Heaven and the traditional "Siheyuan" courtyard houses, Yiyun extracted a visual language that balances the infinite with the grounded. In this vision, the garments become more than clothing; they are a structural dialogue between the celestial and the terrestrial.

Technically, the brilliance of Yiyun’s work lies in the use of modular patterns and geometric tension. The collection features a sophisticated interplay of textures where voluminous, curved seams represent the "Round Sky" while sharp, architectural tailoring anchors the "Square Earth." Many pieces utilize detachable square panels that can be draped or pinned, allowing the wearer to alter the physical geometry of the garment. This juxtaposition of rigid, heavy-weight fabrics against translucent, flowing silks creates a sensory experience of the horizon line where these two opposing forces meet.

Ultimately, Peng Yiyun’s work represents a sophisticated evolution of the "New Chinese Style." By moving away from traditional motifs like dragons or embroidery and focusing instead on the underlying logic of cultural philosophy, Yiyun creates a vision of harmony for the modern era. A Round Sky, A Square Earth stands as a testament to the power of looking backward to move forward, proving that the oldest ideas in the world can still look like the future.