The Class of 2020 MA20 catwalk show in the iconic surroundings of the Roundhouse. The show enables rising talents to present their work, giving as much visibility as possible to this upcoming and talented generation of the fashion industry. Against a backdrop of industry insiders and esteemed guests, the collections unfolded, revealing a shared appreciation for gorpcore. The emerging trend was brought to life through a fusion of hybrid silhouettes, vibrant sports-inspired colors and technical materials.
Although this year, one particular collection grabbed the attention of an audience beyond the Roundhouse. MA Menswear student, Harikrishnan, became an internet sensation in the days after the show with his inflatable latex trouser design hitting the headlines. The collection sparked conversation across TV, social media and press, leaving people eager to find out the purpose of his particular designs.
NAME:HARIKRISHNAN. COLLECTION: LETS PUT HIM IN A VASE
Drawing inspiration from artists like fashion photographer Tim Walker and graphic designer Jean-Paul Goude, for this collection I’ve explored the evolution of human image distortion in different artistic practices.
Making this collection was the hardest thing I've ever attempted in my life, mainly because of the craft elements embedded in the production of each garment. I worked with latex, wool, wood and lacquer using 4 completely different processes.
NAME: KEI ZHANG. COLLECTION: DAN
DAN" aims to express multicultural symbiotic society in a Danchi, a type of Japanese housing estate where many foreigners live. Kei mainly chose soft and easy-to-wear fabric such as cotton and jersey, which are commonly used in children's wear. She combined circles, spots, floral pattern to represent various generations and nationalities living in a Danchi. Items such as oversized down jackets, sagging pants and hooded sweatshirts are used to show off street style.
NAME: KYLE HO. COLLECTION: ATTEINDRE LE CIEL
When we are children, we always dream of reaching the sky. We walk on tiptoes, wishing to grow taller so we can get closer to the sky. This desire is reflected in my collection, playing with the pastel colour palette and the shapes of the garments.
This collection challenges how we perceive the male body. The design explores various forms; shortening, extending, narrowing and widening relative planes of fabric to create a distorted yet elegant physique.
The construction of each piece is deeply embedded in the exploration of the male form, seeking to manipulate the perception of one's figure via enhanced proportions to create an exaggerated silhouette.
NAME: OLIVIA RUBENS. COLLECTIONS: PHOTOSYNTHESIZE
The clothes in the Photosynthesize collection actively reduce the amount of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere through photosynthesis. Undergoing the process of sequestration they capture carbon dioxide, just as a plant would. The special concoction they're coated in is in fact a living layer, cultured using photosynthetic microorganisms. Rubens tells me that so far, in this riveting project full of unknowns, that they've found that knitwear provides the sort of surface the bacteria grips to best. She describes the knitwear which makes up a chunk of the MACHINE-A collection as being 'Like moss, it's a mini forest, and you have the bacteria in there doing its thing to make it live.'
NAME: CHIA HUNG SU. COLLECTION: A SENSE OF WELLNESS
The inspiration for this collection came from my own background and the history of my 2 countries: Taiwan and Japan. I've combined the traditional Japanese aesthetics of Wabi Sabi, which illustrates the beauty in imperfection, with a hint of Taiwanese aboriginal folk culture.
The fabrics I've used for this collection are full of history, making each garment completely unique. I've created reversible jackets and trousers using up-cycled vintage kimonos, and the buttons were all handmade with old coins from Taiwan and Japan.
NAME: IN LEE. COLLECTION: NUBI
'Nubi' is a reinterpretation of Korean traditional clothing 'Hanbok' through the narrative of the journey. I am a Korean-Australian designer and I believe my dual-cultural background helped me to build a unique viewpoint as a designer. I tried to take Hanbok on a creative journey to show how a traditional dress that is meaningful to me can be translated into something different, with new concepts, designed for contemporary women's wardrobe.
NAME: KAT LAU. COLLECTION: KATLAU
For my menswear collection, I focused on researching various fields around fashion sportswear and athletics, including the concept of enclothed cognition and body movement, looking at the power of garments to change our perceptions, consciousness, feelings and behaviours.
'The Katlau Nation' challenges the notion of national identity through the language of flags and colours. To complete all the looks, I’ve created ergonomic flag coats to be worn as second-skin over knitwear and sportswear.
NAME: STEPHANIE MOSCALL - VAREY. COLLECTION PIT BOW (A SPECIAL GHOST)
Pit Brow collection pays homage and respect to the heritage of the mining industry while recognizing the need for innovation and progression. The collection eliminates its own carbon footprint using air filtering fabric.
