A Masterclass in Creative Audacity and Subversive Tradition
W: Maximiliano Dubois
Istituto Marangoni Milano inaugurated Fashion Graduate Italia 2021 not just with a runway show, but with a vivid declaration of intent. Facing a room of curious and attentive guests, the school’s best talent delivered a showcase that felt distinctly more evolved than its predecessors—striking a rare balance between high-concept experimentation and infectious playfulness.
The 2021 cohort demonstrated a profound ability to translate personal and global concerns into tangible textiles. This wasn't merely a display of technical skill; it was an exploration of identity. Students utilized the runway as a total sensory environment, exerting complete control over rhythm, music, and lighting to ensure their visual narratives landed with maximum impact.
The collections moved through a series of contrasting aesthetics, proving that "Marangoni style" is far from a monolith: Subverting the Feminine: The runway oscillated between extremes. We saw "prairie girl" archetypes reimagined through intricate patchwork, juxtaposed against "Femme Fatales" sporting deconstructed lingerie dresses. It was a study in the evolution of the female silhouette—from protected to provocative. The New Masculinity: In one of the show’s most daring turns, menswear challenged traditional stoicism. Designers weren't afraid to embrace a sense of childlike vulnerability, while others took a darker, more surreal path—notably with models cinched in ties crafted from natural hair. Textural Experimentation: The craftsmanship was palpable. Waves of tulle, lace, and satin provided a romantic foundation, but it was the "thrilling transparencies" and the amplification of embroidery that signalled a high level of technical maturity.
The Istituto Marangoni 2021 show was a testament to the power of recovery and reinvention. By taking traditional techniques and forcing them into "new shapes and silhouettes," these graduates proved they aren't just ready for the industry—they are ready to reshape it. It was a collection of voices that were loud, experimental, and, above all, fearless.
Paul Majer’s “Under Construction” capsule collection is inspired by Brutalist architecture, British heritage and construction elements to communicate the changes that are taking place in the fashion industry. The emerging fashion designer plays with a mix and match of prints and patterns creating a patchwork effect.
Guiyin Yang with his collection “For You, You Can Be Anyone” communicates genderless culture: the union of masculine and feminine, the combination of delicacy and strength, conflict, tolerance and balance between these elements are the main issues addressed.
The emerging fashion designer plays with fabric manipulation and vibrant colours for enriching the smooth bases of the textiles.
The collection “Nowhere” by Filippo Cascinelli Staudacher aims to declare that men’s fashion must be reborn now, free from the concepts of toxic and weak masculinity. The young fashion designer wisely combines classic elements of Made in Italy tailoring with more contemporary elements.
The color palette is made up of soft, light and pastel shades. He plays with interesting elements such as giant structured flowers, oversized pockets and drawstrings. The garments are structured, but at the same time they convey a new idea of feminine masculinity and fluidity.
