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CLASS OF 2023: Beyond the Thread: TMU’s Artisans of Intent

For the 2023 graduating class of Toronto Metropolitan University (TMU), the "Mass Exodus" show (themed Sonder) was less about the fast-paced cycle of ready-to-wear and more about "fashion that needs to be digested."

Following the "Art-to-Wear" ethos highlighted by ASBO and TMU faculty, here are five of the best reviews focusing on the intricate details and intentionality of these standout designers.

Haolin Tong: "Phoniness"

Transitioning from Fashion Communication to Design, Haolin Tong delivered one of the most intellectually stimulating collections of the night. Titled "Phoniness," the collection explored how we perform identity differently in private versus public spaces.

  • The Technique: Heavy use of hand-looming and knitting.
  • The Look: Chaotic textures grounded by neutral, form-fitting silhouettes. It felt like an exploration of "messy" human emotions trapped within the "clean" lines of societal expectations.

Hayley Spurdle: Disability and Accessibility

Hayley Spurdle stood out for her commitment to inclusive design. Her work at Mass Exodus was shaped by a fundamental shift toward an "accessible framework," ensuring that high fashion is not just for a specific body type or physical ability.

  • The Impact: Her collection served as a vital reminder that fashion can be both a tool for storytelling and a functional necessity for the disability community.
  • Philosophy: She stated that this process allowed her to "think with disability and accessibility at the forefront," a mindset she intends to carry throughout her career.

Serena Li: "Clouded"

Serena Li’s collection was a masterclass in "subverting security." She took the hallmarks of high-performance techwear—ripstop nylons and weather-resistant fabrics—and paired them with sheer mesh to create a "paradox of exposure."

  • The Vibe: Pragmatic, urban, and slightly disorienting.
  • Key Detail: Li famously avoids traditional fasteners; as she puts it, "There are no buttons in Serena Li’s world." Her work was heavily inspired by her mentorship with Toronto designer Spencer Badu, focusing on building a "uniform" for a chaotic city environment.

Wong Kwok Shing: Artisanal Narrative

Representing the "Art-to-Wear" movement within TMU, Wong Kwok Shing’s work focused on the tactile and the artisanal. His collection leaned into the "Sonder" theme by weaving holistic storytelling into every garment.

  • The Craft: The collection utilized intricate, labor-intensive processes to create garments that felt like lived-in stories.
  • Overall Impression: Along with his peers, Shing’s work pushed the show beyond "ready-to-wear" and into the realm of sculptural, narrative art that requires the viewer to slow down and "digest" the fashion.

Jonathan Dumitra: "It’s A Sin"

Dumitra’s collection was the most provocative of the show, directly challenging his Christian upbringing and heteronormative patriarchal ideals. His work functioned as a liberation of the body and sexual expression.

  • The Vibe: Bold, empowered, and rebellious.
  • Key Pieces: Skin-tight mesh, branded jockstraps, and intricate leather harnesses. It was a high-energy commentary on body image and the reclamation of self-worth through fashion.