DATE: 16th February 2023. PLACE: East Bank Campus . TIME: 19.30
London College of Fashion, UAL, has been nurturing creative talent for over a century. And this years 2023 Graduating MA show took place at the college’s brand new East Bank campus, located in London’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Whilst the majority still naturally leaned towards womenswear, it was the menswear that came out with the stronger and more complete vision. students showcased a range of collections with diverse inspirations, exploration of protective silhouettes, and unique textile manipulations, with some designers highlighting themes like "warrior-like" aesthetics and "baggy shirts with ragamuffin knitwear." The strength and breadth of menswear could also be seen in collections by Zhongzhi Ding who explored homo-erotic Tom of Finland silhouettes and YangYang Li crisp tailored mod inspired silhouettes in a assortment of pale blues & pinks toned down beige separates, Ruyin Tian were definitely a high point, whose collection of STRIP STRAP STRIPE reminded one of a modern day sans-culottes
Zhongzhi Ding
Collection: Male Enhancement
The collection is about creating garments that accentuate masculinity for the men or trans gendered who wear them. The objective here is to identify indicators of homoeroticism as a vehicle for design adopting characteristics of hyper masculine archetypes. Size, bulk, length and girth are developed as prosthetic inserted to pocket construction on the chest, shoulder, and crotch. Details in form such as the nipple, shaft and glans are accentuated by the tension and cut of the cloth.
Ruyin Tian
STRIP STRAP STRIPE’, is inspired by her grandmother and the chaos of memory loss through Alzheimer’s disease. The collection explores aiding memory through cutting patterns and folding strips of fabric, forming zero-waste garments. Ruyin designs for low impact by selecting materials such as organic cotton and recycled fibres from end-of-rolls and cut-and-sew waste. The garments are durable and versatile, with multiple ways of being worn via removable parts. Secondhand cotton ribbons are spliced into the garments to elevate their style, including a zero-waste vest made from a single piece of ribbon.
Collection: Strip, Strap Strip
Quanrong Jian
YangYang Li
