W: Maximiliano Dubois
DATE: 14th June 2024. PLACE: Marylebone Campus. TIME: 19.00
The University of Westminster’s BA Fashion 2024 showcase solidified its reputation as a powerhouse for technical innovation and raw, unfiltered narrative. This year’s cohort moved beyond mere garment construction, leaning into complex world-building and archival subversion. Mila Nikcevic commanded attention with an intricate exploration of form and texture, while Tom Rowe delivered a masterclass in structural silhouette that bridged the gap between sculptural art and wearable fashion. Paolo Iacobucci further elevated the runway with a refined aesthetic that felt both timeless and startlingly modern, proving that the Class of 2024 is less interested in following trends and more focused on establishing new, rigorous design languages.
The show’s momentum continued with Stavri Grigor, whose work challenged traditional proportions with a bold, avant-garde edge. Menswear was equally revitalized through Rachael Tyler’s standout collection, which masterfully deconstructed corporate archetypes into playful, disheveled critiques of professional life. Meanwhile, Theo Ike closed the gap between heritage and futurism, using sophisticated craftsmanship to tell a story that felt deeply personal yet universally resonant. Together, these designers displayed a level of industry-ready maturity that suggests they aren't just the next generation of fashion—they are already leading the conversation.
“Belgrade Boys” menswear collection is a charming tribute, brimming with affection and humour, to the quirky styles of the early ’90s in the former Yugoslavia. In an era of profound societal change, branded goods were scarce but immensely coveted, becoming potent symbols of success. The collection sees macho posturing meet playful campness, blending toughness with an endearing cuteness. Tracksuits are boldly juxtaposed with formal wear, creating a unique, colorful, and refreshingly modern direction in menswear. “Belgrade Boys” is a vivid celebration of a bygone era, reinvented through Mila Nikcevic’s innovative lens, offering a delightful fusion of past and present in men’s fashion.
“Beside the Seaside” collection, a refreshing breath of seaside air inspired by 70s family holiday photographs on the Isle of Wight and personal memories. Drawing from a myriad of references, the collection intricately weaves in details from piers, fairground architecture, unpredictable weather, and the charming ritual of changing clothes in beach huts. Twisted pieces mirror the whims of the British climate, while memories of lugging too much to the beach inspired the creation of a unique ‘smock’ featuring backpack details. Standout jeans, reimagined from old garments, echo the spiral delight of a beloved ‘Helter-Skelter’ ride, capturing the essence of nostalgic summer fun.
“Ode to Italy” Paolo Iacobucci explores Italian stereotypes like pasta, the Mafioso, sipping wine in Positano, cycling jerseys, and Nonna’s house. Vibrant colours, child-like crayon prints, and a red satin shirt with appliqued 3D roses are a cheeky statement of the results of Paolo’s exploration. The collection’s highlights include a playful ‘spaghetti’ jacket and a sensational red satin ‘Italian Stallion’ shirt, adorned with appliqued 3D roses that pop with passion. Every piece is a cheeky yet sophisticated nod to Italy’s rich cultural tapestry, making this collection a riotous celebration of sartorial creativity. Paolo Iacobucci has truly outdone himself, crafting a collection that is as bright as it is bold, and as fun as it is fashion-forward.
Greek tradition and the heritage of folk festivals have influenced designer Stavri Grigori’s sexy, inventive looks. Combining earthy goat-hair with the sheen and delicacy of lilac and pistachio Moiré satin, Stavri creates distinctive modern womenswear. Juxtaposing historic carnival references, including bells and goatskin, with details derived from modern lingerie and corsetry makes for a striking and memorable collection.
Rachael Tyler’s menswear collection is inspired by Pawel Jaszczuk’s photos of disheveled Tokyo salarymen. Tyler challenges traditional business wear by incorporating soft fabrics and unexpected details like skewed neckties and exposed undergarments. Her work contrasts 1980s-inspired formal shapes with playful elements, creating a fresh take on menswear.
Theo Ike’s collection merges fashion with scientific speculation on future climate scenarios. Inspired by geography, natural hazards, and historical events, Ike creates clothes that commemorate life events and tell hidden stories. His open-minded approach to fashion results in unique designs that blend style with deeper meanings.
