Giovanni Franchi’s 2025 graduate collection, titled "Lilith", emerged as a provocative highlight for LABA Firenze at Fashion Graduate Italia. Drawing inspiration from the primordial myth of the first woman who refused to be subordinate, Franchi’s work serves as a sartorial exploration of feminine power, independence, and the reclamation of the "dark" feminine. The collection moves beyond simple aesthetics, functioning instead as a narrative vessel for the eternal struggle between societal expectation and untamed self-assertion.

The design language of "Lilith" is rooted in the tension between ancient symbolism and contemporary subversion. Franchi utilizes dramatic silhouettes and complex material manipulations to represent the dual nature of his muse: her vulnerability as an outcast and her strength as a rebel. The garments often feature architectural draping contrasted with raw, exposed elements, mirroring the "Lilith" archetype’s rejection of Edenic perfection. This juxtaposition creates a visual dialogue about the cost of freedom and the beauty found in defiance.

By presenting this collection, Franchi challenges the fashion industry to look past superficial beauty and engage with deeper, often uncomfortable, mythological truths. His debut marks him as a designer focused on emotional storytelling, using fashion to decode the complexities of identity and the silent rebellion required to maintain one's authenticity in a modern world. "Lilith" is not just a collection; it is a manifesto for the uncompromising spirit.

Sara Amorosa’s 2025 graduate collection, titled "Matrice Assuefatta" (Numbed Matrix), delivered a searing critique of societal conformity at Fashion Graduate Italia. Representing LABA Firenze, Amorosa moved away from traditional aestheticism to explore the internal friction between authentic animal instinct and the "domesticated" masks imposed by a hypocritical society. Her work is a visual manifesto of rebellion, illustrating the toxic "gilded prison" of a quiet, obedient existence.

The collection is characterized by a "rotten fruit" motif—symbolizing a core that has been corrupted by external pressures. Design-wise, this manifests through heavy textural contrasts and protective layering that suggests a "bubble" or sanctuary against the world. Amorosa utilizes garments as psychological armor, where structured elements represent social constraints and raw, deconstructed details signal the "darkness" within. By blending provocative silhouettes with a narrative of addiction and escapism, Amorosa establishes herself as a visceral storyteller. She challenges the industry to confront the farce of perfection, offering instead a raw, unapologetic reflection of contemporary human struggle.

Amorosa’s debut highlights a designer who views fashion not merely as clothing, but as a tool for social commentary. Through "Matrice Assuefatta," she invites the viewer to look beyond the surface of a "sober and quiet" appearance to find the raw, burning conflict that defines the modern human experience.

Sara Dellapasqua’s 2025 graduate collection, presented at Fashion Graduate Italia, stands as a profound exploration of introspection and the "unspoken" within the human psyche. Representing LABA Firenze, Dellapasqua moves away from the loud, chaotic trends of the fast-fashion era, opting instead for a minimalist yet deeply textured approach that reflects the quiet strength found in solitude. Her collection serves as a poetic study of the space between what we project and what we keep hidden, translating the concept of "silence" into a tangible, wearable medium.

The design philosophy of Dellapasqua’s work is rooted in meticulous craftsmanship and the manipulation of natural fibers. She utilizes a palette of muted, earthy tones—soft greys, off-whites, and deep shadows—to create a sense of timelessness. The silhouettes are often fluid and organic, mimicking the contours of the body while providing a sense of sanctuary. Key to her aesthetic is the use of layering and transparency, where sheer fabrics overlap with structured knits to represent the complexity of human emotion and the layers of identity we peel back in moments of reflection.

By showcasing this collection, Dellapasqua establishes herself as a designer of great sensitivity and intellectual depth. She invites the audience to slow down and appreciate the subtle nuances of textile and form. "The Anatomy of Silence" is more than a display of technical skill; it is a meditation on the beauty of the inner self, proving that in the world of fashion, the most powerful messages are often the ones whispered rather than screamed.

Gabriele Leoni’s 2025 graduate collection, titled "Desiderio Insaziabile" (Insatiable Desire), stands as a poignant exploration of the human psyche. In a world increasingly mediated by digital filters and curated personas, Leoni’s work strips back the veneer to examine the raw, often exhausting pursuit of external validation. The collection serves as a mirror to our modern obsession with perception, challenging the viewer to look beyond the fabric and into the motivations of the wearer.

The narrative is anchored in a powerful philosophical premise: the universal yearning to be seen and recognized. Leoni explores the paradox of control—the idea that while we believe we are the masters of our own image, we are often enslaved by the "insatiable desire" for approval. His designs suggest a cycle of emotional consumption, where those who give of themselves without boundaries are eventually depleted by the very gaze they seek to attract. It is a hauntingly beautiful commentary on the cost of intimacy and the fragility of the self.

Visually, Leoni’s aesthetic reflects this tension between vulnerability and strength through deconstructed tailoring and tactile contrasts. By utilizing raw, unfinished edges alongside highly structured silhouettes, he symbolizes the fragmentation of identity under social pressure. As a standout participant in Fashion Graduate Italia 2025, Leoni has signaled himself as a designer who prioritizes storytelling over mere trend-following, offering a visceral and sophisticated perspective on the complexities of modern identity.

Emerging as a distinct voice from LABA Firenze, Sara Maciocia’s 2025 graduate collection, titled "C’era una volta" (Once Upon a Time), is a profound journey into the architecture of memory. Her work serves as a bridge between the innocent wonder of childhood and the complex realities of adulthood. By weaving personal history into high-fashion silhouettes, Maciocia explores how the "small things" of our past—a toy, a fabric scrap, or a shared moment—form the foundational layers of our current identities.

The collection is characterized by a sophisticated play on proportions and nostalgic textures. Maciocia skillfully interprets the concept of "growing up" by contrasting oversized, protective shapes with delicate, intricate detailing that mimics the handcrafted quality of vintage garments. This duality creates a visual dialogue between the fragility of youth and the armor we build as we age. Her use of color and material is intentional, evoking a sense of "domestic warmth" while maintaining a sharp, avant-garde edge that feels entirely contemporary.

Beyond the aesthetics, Maciocia’s presentation at Fashion Graduate Italia 2025 highlighted her commitment to sentimental sustainability. Each piece feels like a curated artifact, encouraging the viewer to reconsider their own relationship with time and the objects they carry through life. By grounding her collection in universal themes of growth and longing, Maciocia has established herself as a designer capable of turning deeply personal introspection into a resonant, collective fashion experience.