The 2026 Westminster BA Fashion show firmly cemented the institution’s reputation for rigorous technical precision, anchoring radical innovation in flawless construction and masterful pattern cutting. While graduate runways can occasionally succumb to derivative aesthetics or purely abstract concepts, this year’s cohort prioritised honest, tactile craftsmanship without sacrificing a shred of creative audacity. The runway was dominated by a subversion of traditional menswear and subcultural uniforms, characterised by hyper-functional utility, deconstructed tailoring, and exaggerated, cocoon-like silhouettes. By pairing rigid, heavy-duty fabrications with fluid, manipulated textiles, the collections achieved a compelling tension between protective armour and theatrical elegance.
Amongst a highly competitive field, designers like Khoo En Zhi, Rachael Adegoke, and Aliyah Dankwah delivered exceptionally resolved visions that captured the energy of the room. Khoo En Zhi impressed with sculptural silhouettes and organic fabric manipulation, whilst Rachael Adegoke brought dynamic proportions and a fearless approach to volume, beautifully balanced by Aliyah Dankwah’s intricate, street-level technical tailoring. Collectively, the Class of 2026 demonstrated a profound understanding of contemporary garment structure, offering a refreshing antidote to commercially safe design. It was a mature, tightly edited showcase that proved graduate fashion is at its absolute best when bold conceptualism is backed by immaculate, heavy-duty craftsmanship.
W: Max-Pierre Pearson
Ensembles: Challenging masculine identity with precise visuals, Qihui creates a sleek, contemporary collection. Drawing from 1950s/60s style icons alongside modern interior design, this refined, subversive statement holds subtle surprises. Leather, technical fabrics, and engineered knits contrast with handwoven cuffs and floral prints. Covetable, gender-neutral bags complete this unique vision.
In Tension: Investigating the balance between structure and fluidity, Aliyah Dankwah’s striking womenswear draws from her heritage—specifically the sculptural Ghanaian smock. Bold colour blocks reflect Ghanaian sensibilities, providing drama. The weaving process influences unconventional silhouettes. London life provides a cultural clash, where structured outerwear is softened with leather ties, reflecting co-existence and connection.
ORDER Permits Freedom: Tom Fee’s menswear collection explores his personal relationship with order through a journey at night. Traversing from darkness to light, the six looks move from rigid and opaque to transparent and exposed. Inspired by Agnes Martin and techno music, the collection interrogates how masking and concealment transform into visibility and release.
In Between Gestures: Celebrating imperfection and the unexpected, Leqi Zeng’s refined womenswear is a study of effortless disorder. The undone and unintentional become relaxed, powerful elegance. Keen observations of daily life highlight fleeting moments—oversized coats with exposed linings, cropped trousers, and worn leather. Her clever pieces are shaped through movement, imbalance, and personal adjustments
Bridging Aso: Rachael Adegoke fuses her Nigerian heritage with British menswear tailoring, creating a fresh dialogue around Black dandyism. Referencing contemporary art and archival folk attire, she contrasts these against relaxed "Henley Regatta" suiting. Layered, tactile expressions and custom beaded lace echo mid-century Nigerian art, while repurposed leather bags link London and Lagos.
Mabuhay (To live): This exuberant, personal collection reflects Nikyla Natividad’s Philippine heritage. Inspired by lush flora, family personalities, and Benidicto Cabrera’s art, relaxed silhouettes blend historical and modern cultures. Mindful of Filipino resourcefulness, the line utilizes kaleidoscopic deadstock fabrics, hand-crafted textures, and traditional piña fabric, transforming the classic Bayong bag into a vibrant, modern tote.
Tour de Couleur: Archive images of early Tour de France events inspire Florence Kelk Whall’s delightful, light-hearted menswear collection. Reinventing vintage cycling dress, deadstock fabrics are transformed through layering and softened finishes to evoke garments repaired over time. Faded neutrals are highlighted with flashes of pink and yellow, balancing function with a mischievous re-working of classic race details.
Spirit Ditch: Highlighting the beauty in the mundane, Oliver Orr’s womenswear explores human quirks and city life. Inspired by personal muses, highly individual looks celebrate youthful eclecticism and awkwardness by exposing garment interiors. The collection interrogates density and fragility through quilting, using intentional cut-outs, experimental cutting, layering, and deliberate mis-matching throughout.
Modern Ritual: Captivated by Japanese Samurai traditions, Alex Lyons’ creative menswear reflects an imagined path to mastery. Re-interpreting classic silhouettes through pleating and repetition, each stage is depicted in a singular, considered look. Volume is explored, balancing extravagant shapes with discipline. Using deadstock fabrics, experimental trials translate into an imaginative, contemporary statement.
The Entomologists: Inspired by the intricacies of entomology, Giorgia’s love of the natural world shines through this beautiful, quirkily cool collection. Meticulously considered, all elements respect the planet. Natural fabrics include donated Shetland wool tweed, woven in Hawick, Scotland. Clever, interchangeable button-off waistbands allow the wearer to transform, creating a fully compostable, zero-waste statement.
Vice City: Inspired by classic Hong Kong crime cinema, Kane Chan uses the anti-hero to create a unique take on menswear. Translating the "violence aesthetic" from 1980–2010 films, Kane considers the conflict between police and gangsters. Drama is reflected in fractured garments, where deconstructed power silhouettes juxtapose louche style and dishevelled layers.
Cut by Light: The atmospheric play of natural light inspires Sumi Kim’s beautiful, accomplished womenswear collection, reinventing a golden age of glamour. Linear rays of sunlight are translated through sharp seam placement and controlled silhouettes, while fluid drape reflects light across surfaces. Crisp seams contrast with bias-cut satin, combining delicacy, structure, and movement.