W: Hattie Glass
Designer: Jiaying Wang
Institution: Parsons School Of Art
Theme: KAEi WANG
Jiaying Wang’s 2024 graduate collection is a masterclass in subverting the rigid structures of menswear. Operating under her label KAEi WANG, she has crafted a narrative that replaces the traditional "armour" of masculinity with a "soft but dandy" sensibility. Her work is a rebellious exhale—a deliberate move away from the aggressive stability often demanded of men’s fashion.
The Sketchbook (The "Aha!" Moment)
The genesis of Jiaying’s collection lies in a quiet rebellion. During her undergraduate studies, she noticed a heavy institutional emphasis on womenswear, which sparked a desire to apply that same level of fluid creativity to the male form.
Her "Aha!" moment came from questioning the binary of strength and gentleness. In her sketchbook, the initial strokes weren't of sharp, military lines, but of curvatures and historical dandyism. She sought to refashion masculinity not as a lack of strength, but as a different kind of power—one that is comfortable with vulnerability. This conceptual foundation led to the birth of the "soft dandy," a figure that balances high-fashion sophistication with an approachable, poetic grace.
The Fabrication (The Tension of Texture)
To bring her "soft but dandy" vision to life, Jiaying leaned heavily into the tension of texture. The collection thrives on the juxtaposition of materials that traditionally don't sit together in a man's wardrobe.
- Fluidity vs. Structure: She utilizes fabrics that drape and flow, mimicking the movement of classical womenswear, yet tailors them with the precision of traditional menswear.
- The Tactile Experience: By layering idiosyncratic textures, Wang challenges the "stability" of the male silhouette. The choice of fabrics serves as a physical representation of her philosophy: that masculinity can be multi-layered and tactile rather than monolithic and hard.
This focus on fabrication ensures that the garments aren't just seen—they are felt. The "tension" arises from seeing a masculine frame enveloped in materials that suggest a sophisticated, gentle interiority.
The Catwalk (The Final Reveal)
On the runway, the KAEi WANG 2024 collection transformed these theories into a striking visual reality. The final reveal showcased a silhouette that was both nostalgic and futuristic.
The "soft dandy" stepped out in ensembles that pushed the boundaries of conventional design through:
- Nuanced Proportions: Shoulders that whispered rather than shouted, and waists that allowed for a more relaxed, elegant posture.
- A New Aesthetic Language: The collection successfully broke stereotypes by presenting men as figures of "gentle sophistication."
The catwalk presentation was more than just a display of clothes; it was a curated atmosphere of quiet confidence. By the final look, it was clear that Jiaying Wang had succeeded in her mission: she didn't just design a collection; she proposed a new way for the modern man to inhabit his own skin.
