Issue 23 cover

Issue 23

featuring The Hara New Issue Out Now
DIARY OF A COLLECTION: The Architecture of Shiver: Markus Anttonen’s Somatic Shelter

NAME: Markus Anttonen

INSTITUTION: Aalto University

THEME: Elemental Shelter

The core of this collection is a shift in perspective: clothing as elemental shelter. Rather than chasing fleeting visual trends, Anttonen looks at the garment through the lens of survival and somatic memory.

The theme captures the involuntary physical response to a drop in temperature—the way shoulders hunch, the breath tightens, and the body instinctively seeks a cocoon. It is a poetic study of how cold weather dictates our posture and how our clothes, in turn, offer a soft, resilient defense against the world.

The Sketchbook: Translating Sensation

In the initial stages, the "sketching" was as much about feeling as it was about drawing. Anttonen’s process began with winter evening walks, documenting the transition of the body from fluid movement to a guarded, cold-induced stiffness.

  • Focus: The tactile experience over the visual silhouette.
  • The Goal: To translate the feeling of "freezing" into the structure of a garment.
  • Methodology: Using the body's reaction to the cold as a blueprint for volume and layer placement.

The Fabrication: The Tension of Texture

Fabrication is where the collection finds its weight. To mimic the protective nature of insulation, Anttonen utilized a rich variety of natural fibers, specifically chosen for their high thermal resistance and luxurious hand-feel.

  • Materials: A heavy emphasis on wools, including the cloud-like softness of angora and the sturdy warmth of alpaca.
  • Palette: Intentionally muted tones. By stripping away loud colors, the focus remains entirely on the interplay of light and shadow across the textures.
  • The Process: A modern marriage of traditional draping and CLO3D digital pattern-making. This allowed for a precise balance—using technology to perfect the fit while maintaining the sensitive, organic flow of the heavy textiles.

The Catwalk: The Final Reveal

As the collection moves to the floor, the "Sensation of Cold" becomes a visual narrative of protection. The final reveal showcases silhouettes that feel both architectural and intimate.

The garments appear as a series of insulating shells, where the tension of the textures creates a sense of profound stillness. On the runway, the models embody the theme; the clothes don't just hang—they wrap, shield, and hold. It is a final realization of the "somatic memory," proving that the most powerful fashion is often felt before it is seen.