Designer: William Palmer

Theme: The Breadwinner: A satirical exploration of financial pressure, domesticity, and the reclamation of childlike wonder.

Institution: Central St Martins

The Sketchbook

Subverting the Suit

The collection was born in the transitional "in-between" spaces—moving back to London and balancing the exhaustion of a part-time job with the rigor of design. The sketchbook serves as a diary of these economic and emotional pressures.

• Visual Genesis: A focus on the "Traditional Masculine Archetype." Palmer began by deconstructing the symbols of financial success (the briefcase, the suit, the commute) and injecting them with humor.
• The "Breadwinner" Concept: The central motif is a witty subversion of the term. The "Breadwinner Bag" serves as a literal and metaphorical anchor for the collection—mocking the weight of being the provider.
• The Philosophy: To bridge the gap between the "Executive" and the "Infant." Palmer’s sketches explored oversized underwear hybrids, questioning why adulthood requires us to trade play for perfection.

The Fabrication

The Texture of Imperfection

Palmer’s choice of materials reflects a commitment to British heritage, yet his techniques are intentionally disruptive. He embraces the "flaw" as a design choice.

• Materiality: The collection is grounded in high-quality, traditional menswear fabrics:
  • Ventile Organic Cotton & Indigo Denim: Providing a durable, utilitarian base.
  • Recycled British Wool: Honoring sustainable luxury.
• The Domestic Disruptors: To blur the lines between formal and casual, Palmer integrated upcycled tea towels and elastic bands. These "kitchen-sink" elements ground the high-fashion pieces in everyday reality.
• The "Bite Mark" Technique: Challenging the "perfectionist" standard of the industry, Palmer incorporated literal bite marks and imperfections into the garments—a tactile representation of the stress and consumption of modern life.

The Catwalk

The Urban Pulse

The final presentation is a display of rhythmic precision. It feels less like a parade and more like a choreographed movement through a metropolis.

• The Presentation: A sterile, high-contrast environment. Sharp lighting that catches the edges of the structured shoulders and the sheen of the technical fabrics.
• The Impact: As the models walk, the rigidity of the garments reveals a surprising fluidity. The "armor" breathes.
• The Reflection: A collection that defines the modern uniform—prepared for the elements, yet refined for the gallery.