Words Pattie Smyth

Matil Vanlint’s graduate collection, "V", is a visceral and award-winning master's project from HEAD – Genève. The collection has garnered significant attention for its raw emotional depth and its architectural approach to the "monstrous" body, effectively blending high fashion with a profound psychological narrative.

The title "V" stands for Victim, Violence, and Victory. Vanlint uses fashion as a "manifesto for life," translating personal trauma and physical memories into tangible garments. This exploration manifests as intentional "monstrosities"—distorted lumps at the hips, exaggerated silhouettes, and growths that push toward the head and feet. By doing so, Vanlint creates a "creature-maker" aesthetic that blurs the boundary between a human form and a mutated, sculptural entity, exploring what bodies might look like if internal trauma left physical marks.

Technically, the collection is a masterclass in hybrid construction, notably blending traditional tailoring with millinery techniques. Vanlint developed a unique method to create self-supporting 3D volumes and structural "lumps" using felt and wool without the need for internal metal supports. Many pieces were drafted as single flat pieces that, when manipulated, form complex bow-like structures or knots. This materiality is further enriched by a mix of high-end Loden Steiner Wool and upcycled textiles, such as discarded T-shirts and bedsheets found on the streets of Brussels.

The visual identity of "V" was designed to be jarring and unforgettable. The colour palette is dominated by "shocking pink" and deep reds, blurring the lines between beauty, flesh, and the grotesque. The styling included distorted wigs with "unattractive" details and pointy, distorted shoes inspired by the designer's own bunions—reclaiming a source of physical shame as a design element. This bold approach earned Vanlint the Vahabzadeh Foundation Prize for the best MA collection and the ASWE Prize.

Ultimately, Matil Vanlint’s "V" is more than a fashion collection; it is psychological armor. It successfully moves past the "misery" of trauma by turning it into a source of creative power. By combining the rigid discipline of tailoring with the organic, often chaotic shapes of "mutation," Vanlint has established herself as a significant new voice in avant-garde fashion.