Yozo is a masterclass in how to use fashion as a medium for emotional resonance and connection.

W: Pandora Green

Jacopo Cocci’s graduate collection, Yozo, is a hauntingly beautiful exercise in psychological storytelling. Drawing from Dazai Osamu’s seminal novel No Longer Human, Cocci translates the internal rot of alienation into a tactile, visual language that feels both ancient and sharply modern. A sophisticated debut that balances high-concept intellectualism with innovative textile manipulation. Cocci is a name to watch for those interested in the intersection of costume history and contemporary angst.

Jacopo Cocci has established himself as a "poetic pragmatist." While the inspiration is deeply literary and dark, the construction—particularly the padded fringes and hand-bleached denim—shows a high level of craftsmanship ready for the luxury industry. Yozo is a masterclass in how to use fashion as a medium for emotional resonance and connection.

With his collection Yozo, Jacopo presents a fragmented confession where fragility becomes quiet resistance. The collection explores the "social mask"—the performance of humanity we put on to hide our inner turmoil. By blending Edo-period silhouettes with yokai folklore, Cocci creates a tension between the rigid structures of the past and the supernatural "monsters" of the subconscious.

Fringes, bleached grids, and floral traces convey fractured identity, while soft silhouettes protect vulnerability. The use of grids and fringes serves as a brilliant metaphor for emotional repression; the grid represents the cage of societal expectations, while the fringes suggest the unravelling of the self.

Cocci’s technical execution is where the collection truly breathes. It is not just fashion; it is a reactive environment.

• Thermosensitive Fabrics: The most striking choice is the use of heat-reactive materials. As the garments change color with the wearer’s body heat, they mirror the protagonist’s fluctuating emotional states.
• The Palette: A blue and grey palette mirrors the emotional distance of Yozo’s inner world, heavily influenced by Kandinsky’s color theory.
• The Embroidered Flower: The use of loose stitching in floral motifs acts as a poignant finale to the narrative—symbolizing a messy, honest acceptance of one’s flaws rather than a pursuit of perfection.