W: Jackson Price
The De Montfort University (DMU) Graduate Fashion Show 2025 at the Old Truman Brewery was a high-octane celebration of "technical maximalism." This year’s showcase solidified DMU’s reputation as a leader in unconventional construction, with the runway dominated by a play on scale and "cartoonish" proportions. Critics and attendees were particularly struck by the "blown-out" silhouettes, where drop-waisted skirts with fluid movement were paired against rigid, exaggerated upper-body layers. The overall aesthetic felt like a sophisticated blend of sci-fi rave culture and alpine après-ski, characterized by a punky playfulness that pushed the boundaries of traditional tailoring.
The show's success was underscored by a massive haul of accolades, with DMU students taking home five major awards during Graduate Fashion Week. Dnee Scott won the Digital Fashion Media Award with her "Your Next Move" project, which utilized haunting underwater photography to visualize the psychological state of "drowning in thoughts." Meanwhile, Isabella Rawlinson-Matthews was recognized for her inclusive fashion magazine FK’UM, a project that challenged industry standards and prioritized diverse storytelling. These wins highlighted a shift in the 2025 cohort toward fashion as a medium for social and emotional commentary rather than just aesthetic appeal.
Footwear and accessories once again served as the "jewel in the crown" for the university. Heidi Walmsley earned the GFW Accessories Award for her sculptural, calf-high footwear that bridged the gap between fine art and wearable product. The collection by Zac Lawrence also turned heads, featuring futuristic "slick orange kicks" that many noted for their immediate commercial viability. This focus on "head-to-toe" excellence ensured that every look felt grounded and complete, proving that the DMU program remains unparalleled in its ability to train students across the entire spectrum of design.
Finally, the 2025 show leaned heavily into the concept of "Leicester Made," paying homage to the university's local manufacturing roots. Designers like Georgie and Isabelle Barton were praised for their commitment to building collections using only Leicester-based suppliers, reimagining the city’s industrial heritage for a modern audience. By blending high-concept knitwear, such as Megan Lester’s automotive-inspired textiles, with a sustainable, localized business model, the 2025 graduates proved they are not just designers, but thoughtful industry disruptors ready to redefine the future of British fashion.
