W: Jo Black.
Yohta Naruse’s graduate collection, "Peel A Clothing," is a hauntingly beautiful meditation on the space between the body and the fabric. Drawing inspiration from the mundane sight of discarded clothes coiled on a floor, Naruse elevates the concept of "laundry" into a high-art exploration of human shedding. By treating garments as a secondary skin—or a protective rind—he captures the exact moment a wearer exits their shell, leaving behind a hollow, sculptural memory. The result is a series of silhouettes that feel both architecturally rigid and emotionally fragile, marking Naruse as a designer who views fashion through the lens of a philosopher.
The collection’s brilliance lies in its mastery of negative space. Unlike traditional tailoring that clings to the form, Naruse’s pieces often stand independently of the body, creating a ghostly, volumetric presence that defies gravity. At the Fashion Graduate Italia showcase, his work stood out for its mature restraint; he avoided the typical student trap of over-embellishment, instead focusing on the "peeling" technique where fabrics drape and fold like fruit skins. It is a sophisticated fusion of his Japanese heritage and avant-garde experimentation, echoing the structural genius of Issey Miyake while introducing a raw, modern vulnerability that is entirely his own.
Beyond the runway, Naruse’s work signals a shift toward intellectual luxury. While the conceptual underpinnings are deep, the execution remains remarkably refined, suggesting a future where his pieces could easily transition from a gallery pedestal to a high-end editorial spread. By finding beauty in the "negative" act of undressing, Naruse hasn't just designed a collection; he has designed a new way to perceive the relationship between our bodies and what we leave behind. He is no longer just a student of Domus Academy—he is a formidable architect of cloth.
