W: Janet King
Lydia Bolton’s 2016 graduate collection at Kingston University, titled "The Girl Who Wore Tracksuits to Prom," was a standout moment that effectively previewed her future as a leader in sustainable fashion.
While many graduate collections lean toward the avant-garde for the sake of spectacle, Bolton’s work was praised for its clever subversion of "chav" culture and its genuine, wearable commentary on class and femininity.
The collection explored the tension between "appropriate" occasion wear and the comfort of streetwear. Bolton took the quintessential "working-class" staple—the tracksuit—and reimagined it through the lens of hyper-feminine prom attire.
The Materials: In an early display of the upcycling ethos that now defines her brand, Bolton sourced many of her base materials from eBay. She combined discarded tracksuits with vintage prom dresses, literally stitching together two opposing social uniforms.
The Aesthetic: The collection featured voluminous silhouettes, satin finishes, and ruffled textures typical of 1980s/90s prom wear, but integrated with zip-ups, elasticated waistbands, and side-stripe detailing.
1. Cultural Subversion Bolton successfully reclaimed a style often looked down upon by the high-fashion establishment. By elevating the tracksuit to "gala" status, she challenged the snobbery surrounding sportswear. The looks felt both ironic and celebratory, capturing a specific British "street-style" energy that felt authentic rather than forced.
2. Early Mastery of Upcycling Even in 2016—before "sustainability" was the industry’s primary buzzword—Bolton was demonstrating how "deadstock" and secondhand items could be transformed into luxury garments. The construction was noted for its technical difficulty; blending the heavy, structured fabrics of tracksuits with the delicate, often flimsy materials of prom dresses requires a high level of craftsmanship.
3. Visual Impact on the Runway On the Kingston University runway, the collection stood out for its vibrant palette (pinks, blues, and greys) and its playful accessorizing. It was "fun" fashion that didn't sacrifice intellectual depth.