W: Lyon Hall

Name: Sarah Muldowney. University: UCLAN. Collection: Raising the Bar

Sarah Muldowney’s graduate collection is a sophisticated exploration of heritage, memory, and modernity. Designed to be inclusive and empowering, the collection deliberately caters to all genders and ages, breaking down the traditional barriers of the fashion industry. It thrives on a series of compelling contrasts—structure versus softness and tradition versus innovation—resulting in garments that honor the weight of the past while looking confidently toward a fluid future.

The collection finds its roots in the personal and the professional, drawing heavy inspiration from the elegance and rituals of the legal world. As the daughter of a barrister, Muldowney utilized her early recollections of monochromatic dress codes, archival photographs, and courtroom illustrations to inform her design development. The structured silhouettes and symbolic gravity of professional court dress served as a foundation for her exploration of fabric manipulation, where the rigid formality of the law is translated into wearable art.

One of the most striking elements of her research is the translation of the traditional horsehair wig into textile design. Muldowney was drawn to the specific texture and form of these cascading curls, which she reinterpreted through intricate pin-tuck detailing and layered fabric treatments. To balance this strict formality, she introduced softer, more abstract visual languages. The organic, futuristic curves of Zaha Hadid’s architecture and the expressive, layered gestures of artist Beñat Olaberria provided a necessary counterpoint, leading to a collection defined by asymmetry, deconstruction, and a sense of movement.

Muldowney’s technical approach was further refined by studying contemporary masters like Peter Do and Phoebe English. Their influence is evident in her thoughtful selection of materials—including hand-dyed silks, cottons, and organza—which allow for a play of transparency and visual depth. This focus on material quality is paired with a deep commitment to sustainability. Following a zero-waste methodology and the philosophy that “better is greater than more,” Muldowney prioritizes durability and intentionality, ensuring each piece is a timeless addition to a wardrobe rather than a fleeting trend.

Ultimately, the collection celebrates a unique duality: the sharp, tailored structures of legal tradition are softened by fluid lines and sculptural, deconstructed elements. The silhouettes are intentionally fresh and organic, challenging conventional ideas of symmetry and rigidity. Through a restrained color palette and high-quality natural fabrics, Sarah Muldowney has created a versatile and elegant body of work that proves fashion can be both deeply personal and universally accessible.